{"id":1101,"date":"2014-12-21T13:54:47","date_gmt":"2014-12-21T12:54:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=377"},"modified":"2017-03-22T16:15:32","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T15:15:32","slug":"carretera-austral","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/21\/carretera-austral\/","title":{"rendered":"Carretera austral"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous quittons Chilo\u00e9 apr\u00e8s une derni\u00e8re \u00e9glise et une rencontre avec les p\u00e9cheurs huilliches de la c\u00f4te, qui pratiquent une p\u00eache \u00e0 pied pour le moins sportive.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

A Quellon nous embarquons avec \u00ab\u00a0Naviera Austral<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb pour Puerto Cisnes o\u00f9 nous aborderons la Patagonie chilienne. Cette partie du Chili, bien que continentale, ne peut \u00eatre atteinte qu\u2019en bateau. Elle est en effet coup\u00e9e au nord comme au sud par des bras de mer ou des fjords tr\u00e8s larges qui s\u2019enfoncent profond\u00e9ment dans les terres.<\/p>\n

Notre ferry embarque aujourd\u2019hui des camions tr\u00e8s charg\u00e9s et quelques voitures. Le premier semi-remorque p\u00e9n\u00e8tre en arri\u00e8re dans l\u2019entr\u00e9e \u00e9troite du ferry, en courbe sur le plan inclin\u00e9. Dur\u00e9e de la man\u0153uvre\u00a0: une heure. Belle \u00e9preuve de permis PL. Nous entrons plus simplement. 9 heures du soir, une petite photo souvenir, avec Quellon en arri\u00e8re-plan.<\/p>\n

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Au petit matin notre bateau navigue dans un d\u00e9dale d\u2019iles et d\u2019ilots. Spectacle rare que ce sillage dans des eaux calmes, sur ce qui para\u00eet \u00eatre un lac cern\u00e9 de montagnes bois\u00e9es. Nous avons de la chance car il fait beau, ce qui est rare en ces parages. A dix heures du matin nous sommes \u00e0 Puerto Cisnes.<\/p>\n

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Premier jour en Patagonie. Premi\u00e8re partie de p\u00eache \u00e0 la truite dans un cadre idyllique. Au deuxi\u00e8me lancer je remonte une (petite) truite. La suite ne sera pas aussi probante, mais cela se pr\u00e9sente bien.<\/p>\n

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Le temps se g\u00e2tant quelque peu, nous d\u00e9cidons de reprendre la route du sud et d\u2019entrer sur la mythique \u00ab\u00a0Carretera austral<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, mythique par sa difficult\u00e9 et par la qualit\u00e9 des paysages travers\u00e9s . Nous avons tout de m\u00eame un peu d\u2019appr\u00e9hension\u00a0!<\/p>\n

Le premier contact n\u2019est pas exactement conforme. La route est toute neuve, magnifiquement asphalt\u00e9e et le temps est pourri, pluie et vent violent, on ne voit pas grand-chose. Mais le lendemain apr\u00e8s Villa Cerro Castillo, c\u2019est tout autre chose.<\/p>\n

On compl\u00e8te notre r\u00e9servoir d\u2019essence \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9picerie. Fini le \u00ab\u00a0pavimiento<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, vive le \u00ab\u00a0ripio<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb. Il n\u2019y a plus que de la piste \u00e0 partir d\u2019ici. On commence \u00e0 voir dans quelle nature nous sommes. Le Cerro Castillo encore embrum\u00e9 est vraiment impressionnant.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02828\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

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Le vent est violent et le temps instable, mais on y voit bien avec la lumi\u00e8re de ce front froid. Des cours d\u2019eau aux couleur \u00e9tranges, torrents ravageurs ou deltas sinueux, zones lacustres et for\u00eats inond\u00e9es, arbres morts en colonies de chandelles, grands lacs de montagnes, bleus, verts, jaunes, cimes enneig\u00e9es, for\u00eats denses, prairies de lupins. On y voit aussi des cyclistes fous qui comme nous font la route du sud, mais prennent le vent et la pluie glac\u00e9e en pleine g\u2026.., transportant des kilotonnes d\u2019\u00e9quipement, sur la t\u00f4le gondol\u00e9e o\u00f9 les pierres roulent sous les pneus. Il fait entre 3\u00b0Cen haut des c\u00f4tes et 6\u00b0C au mieux en bas. Nous adorons le v\u00e9lo, mais heureusement nous n\u2019avons jamais eu l\u2019id\u00e9e de nous infliger cette torture cycliste.<\/p>\n

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\"DSC02831\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous atteignons le lac G\u00e9n\u00e9ral Carrera apr\u00e8s 130 km de pistes, parcourues en six heures, photos incluses. Le lac est immense, cern\u00e9 de hautes montagnes. Nous d\u00e9dions ces photos \u00e0 Marie, Christine, Jean et Vincent, qui sont venus jusqu\u2019ici et nous ont donn\u00e9 envie d\u2019aller y voir. Nous ne sommes pas d\u00e9\u00e7us\u00a0!<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Hasta luego<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nous quittons Chilo\u00e9 apr\u00e8s une derni\u00e8re \u00e9glise et une rencontre avec les p\u00e9cheurs huilliches de la c\u00f4te, qui pratiquent une p\u00eache \u00e0 pied pour le moins sportive. A Quellon nous embarquons avec \u00ab\u00a0Naviera Austral\u00a0\u00bb pour Puerto Cisnes o\u00f9 nous aborderons la Patagonie chilienne. Cette partie du Chili, bien que continentale, ne peut \u00eatre atteinte qu\u2019en […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1085,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[10],"tags":[14],"class_list":["post-1101","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-chili"],"yoast_head":"\nCarretera austral - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/21\/carretera-austral\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Carretera austral - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nous quittons Chilo\u00e9 apr\u00e8s une derni\u00e8re \u00e9glise et une rencontre avec les p\u00e9cheurs huilliches de la c\u00f4te, qui pratiquent une p\u00eache \u00e0 pied pour le moins sportive. 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Cet enseignement dispens\u00e9 sur un an par l'Observatoire de Paris est une opportunit\u00e9 unique pour tous ceux qui souhaitent acqu\u00e9rir une compr\u00e9hension d'ensemble de ce qu'est l'Univers,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc04560.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc04560.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc04560.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc04560.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc04560.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1332,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/03\/06\/comment-voyager-voiture-bus-avion-velo-cheval-pick-up-paquebot-camping-car-ferry\/","url_meta":{"origin":1101,"position":1},"title":"Comment voyager? Voiture, bus, avion, v\u00e9lo, cheval, pick-up, paquebot, camping-car, ferry?","author":"Philippe","date":"6 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"En 15000 kilom\u00e8tres parcourus au Chili et en Argentine, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 bien des voyageurs, et bien des styles d'aventure. Petit bilan pour ceux qui pr\u00e9parent le voyage, ou ceux, plus nombreux, qui ne le pr\u00e9parent pas tout en y pensant. Garder \u00e0 l'esprit la loi universelle du voyage, selon\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1064,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/13\/cote-austral-1\/","url_meta":{"origin":1101,"position":2},"title":"C\u00f4t\u00e9 austral (1)","author":"Philippe","date":"13 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"S\u2019agissant de d\u00e9coration, chacun a ses go\u00fbts. Personnellement j\u2019ai de la sympathie pour le kitsch. Mais d\u00e9fendant un jour que les gens qui mettent des \u00ab\u00a0nains de jardin\u00a0\u00bb pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans leur jardin, font vertu de leur simplicit\u00e9, je me rendis compte que je passais pour un cr\u00e9tin. Quoi, d\u00e9fendre les\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1116,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/02\/22\/que-lindo-que-lindo\/","url_meta":{"origin":1101,"position":3},"title":"\u00a1Que lindo ! \u00a1Que lindo !","author":"Philippe","date":"22 f\u00e9vrier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Trois mois depuis notre arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Santiago du Chili. Derri\u00e8re nous le grand sud du Chili, derri\u00e8re nous le sud de l\u2019Argentine et l\u2019immense Pampa d\u00e9sertique, derri\u00e8re nous les parcs argentins puis le nord-ouest de l\u2019Argentine, derri\u00e8re nous le nord chilien et l\u2019Atacama o\u00f9 il ne pleut jamais (oui\u00a0! jamais\u00a0!\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":575,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/15\/detroit-de-magellan-le-mythe\/","url_meta":{"origin":1101,"position":4},"title":"D\u00e9troit de Magellan, le mythe","author":"Philippe","date":"15 janvier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s le Perito Moreno en Argentine, poursuivant toujours plus sud nous revenons au Chili. Cinq guichets \u00e0 franchir et trois bonnes heures au poste fronti\u00e8re. Au cinqui\u00e8me et dernier guichet, un douanier chilien saisit les deux oranges et les deux avocats que nous transportons. Il les p\u00e8se sur un p\u00e8se-h\u00e9ro\u00efne,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"IMG_1025","src":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=350&h=200&crop=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=350&h=200&crop=1 1x, https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=525&h=300&crop=1 1.5x, https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=700&h=400&crop=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":104,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/04\/notre-module-sest-pose-sur-mars-mais-repond-toujours\/","url_meta":{"origin":1101,"position":5},"title":"Notre module s’est pos\u00e9 sur Mars, mais r\u00e9pond toujours.","author":"Philippe","date":"4 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Beaucoup d'\u00e9l\u00e9ments diff\u00e9rencient les Andes des Alpes ... mais l'un majeur est la pr\u00e9sence de volcans actifs tout au long des Andes. 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