{"id":196,"date":"2014-12-09T02:58:10","date_gmt":"2014-12-09T01:58:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=196"},"modified":"2017-03-22T16:20:02","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T15:20:02","slug":"pacifique-sud-isla-grande-de-chiloe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/09\/pacifique-sud-isla-grande-de-chiloe\/","title":{"rendered":"Pacifique Sud, Isla Grande de Chilo\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s 1000 kilom\u00e8tres en direction du Sud depuis Santiago du Chili, c’est \u00e0 dire en direction du froid, nous nous d\u00e9cidons \u00e0 quitter les montagnes et les belles r\u00e9gions des rivi\u00e8res et des lacs pour rejoindre la c\u00f4te du Pacifique Sud. Nous embarquons \u00e0 Pargua pour la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre ile de Chilo\u00e9, ile capitale de l’archipel du m\u00eame nom. Pour la situer disons que Chilo\u00e9 a une surface \u00e9gale \u00e0 la Corse, et moiti\u00e9 moins d’habitants. Pour le climat cela ressemblerait plut\u00f4t \u00e0 celui de la Bretagne nord, tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s oc\u00e9anique.<\/p>\n

Nous embarquons sur le bac et ne pouvons pas \u00e9viter de faire la comparaison avec la travers\u00e9e vers notre Belle-Ile bien aim\u00e9e … c’est un bac o\u00f9 l’on ne r\u00e9serve pas, ni n’attend, car \u00e0 peine au bout de la route, on descend vers le port, et hop! on est aval\u00e9 par le bateau. Cinq minutes apr\u00e8s il largue les amarres pour traverser pendant trente minutes vers Chacao sur l’ile de Chilo\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02604\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"DSC02603\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tarif: 10500 pesos pour une voiture et deux passagers, soit 13 euros en tout, c’est 5 \u00e0 6 fois moins cher que pour Belle-Ile. Le temps est gris, ce qui arrive rarement vers Belle-Ile.<\/p>\n

Il y a un service de restauration rapide, qui sert d’excellents completos, sandwichs avocat mayonnaise dont l’usage r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9 garantit de belles fesses. C’est aussi une diff\u00e9rence notable avec Belle-Ile… Enfin sur les bou\u00e9es de sauvetage il est fi\u00e8rement \u00e9crit \u00ab\u00a0Valparaiso<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0, ce dont r\u00eavent tous les capitaines de ferrys vers Belle-Ile pour sortir de leur rail.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02620\"<\/a> \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\"DSC02616\"<\/a> \u00a0\u00a0 \"DSC02619\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 Ancud, notre but, le temps s’est d\u00e9gag\u00e9 et nous prenons un premier contact \u00e0 v\u00e9lo. Les maisons sont tr\u00e8s sympa avec leurs formes et leur couleurs. On ne tarde pas \u00e0 trouver un autre parall\u00e8le avec la Corse sur une grande fresque murale.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02634\"<\/a>\u00a0 D\"DSC02641\"<\/a><\/p>\n

De retour \u00e0 notre cabana nous savourons la vue directe sur l’Oc\u00e9an Pacifique, ainsi nomm\u00e9 parce que son d\u00e9couvreur Magellan y avait rencontr\u00e9 des grands calmes et mis plus de trois mois pour le traverser, y perdant au passage pas mal d’\u00e9quipiers.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

D\u00e8s le lendemain nous allons vers une attraction majeure du secteur, les ilots aux pingouins. Mais on ne fait malheureusement pas la ballade en traine-couillons pour les voir de pr\u00e8s, car apr\u00e8s nous avoir vendu les tickets, le cap’tain de la barque nous annonce que les conditions de mer sont \u00ab\u00a0malo\u00a0\u00bb, c’est \u00e0 dire \u00ab\u00a0bad\u00a0\u00bb, en bref mauvaises. On se contente donc d’une photo prise du rivage, au t\u00e9l\u00e9objectif, la preuve tangible qu’il y a des biens des pingouins ici. Comme partout pensent certains.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a> \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Cependant il y a beaucoup d’oiseaux de mer dans ce secteur et c’est un vrai plaisir de les fixer dans la g\u00e9latine num\u00e9rique de l’appareil photo. Deux mouettes qui se sont f\u00e2ch\u00e9es. Une mouette qui attaque un go\u00eblan bien plus gros qu’elle. Des rapaces qui semblent plonger sur vous avant de relever leur vol, ouf! on a eu peur.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a> \"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Et ici les m\u00eames huitriers-pie qu’\u00e0 Belle-Ile, qui percent les moules avec leur bec orange. Et derri\u00e8re la plage, dans des marais, d’autres oiseaux.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Plus loin nous rejoignons une tr\u00e8s grande plage o\u00f9 la houle du Pacifique, conform\u00e9ment \u00e0 sa r\u00e9putation, tape dur. Des vagues tr\u00e8s hautes et tr\u00e8s longues d\u00e9ferlent avec une belle r\u00e9gularit\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous terminons en nous rendant sur un petit port de p\u00eache, qui se r\u00e9v\u00e8le \u00eatre avant tout un port de p\u00eache aux algues. Celles-ci seraient exp\u00e9di\u00e9es au Japon. Mais pour quoi faire?<\/p>\n

\"SONY\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Hasta luego!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Apr\u00e8s 1000 kilom\u00e8tres en direction du Sud depuis Santiago du Chili, c’est \u00e0 dire en direction du froid, nous nous d\u00e9cidons \u00e0 quitter les montagnes et les belles r\u00e9gions des rivi\u00e8res et des lacs pour rejoindre la c\u00f4te du Pacifique Sud. Nous embarquons \u00e0 Pargua pour la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre ile de Chilo\u00e9, ile capitale de l’archipel […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1072,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"audio","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[10],"tags":[14],"class_list":["post-196","post","type-post","status-publish","format-audio","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-chili","post_format-post-format-audio"],"yoast_head":"\nPacifique Sud, Isla Grande de Chilo\u00e9 - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/09\/pacifique-sud-isla-grande-de-chiloe\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pacifique Sud, Isla Grande de Chilo\u00e9 - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Apr\u00e8s 1000 kilom\u00e8tres en direction du Sud depuis Santiago du Chili, c’est \u00e0 dire en direction du froid, nous nous d\u00e9cidons \u00e0 quitter les montagnes et les belles r\u00e9gions des rivi\u00e8res et des lacs pour rejoindre la c\u00f4te du Pacifique Sud. 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Notre curiosit\u00e9 y trouve son compte. Test du \u00abcuranto al hoyo\u00bb \u00e0 Quetalmahue. Le curanto, si l\u2019on admet les d\u00e9finitions absurdes, c\u2019est un peu comme une choucroute de la mer sans chou, mais avec la mer quand m\u00eame. On garde les\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1101,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/21\/carretera-austral\/","url_meta":{"origin":196,"position":1},"title":"Carretera austral","author":"Philippe","date":"21 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous quittons Chilo\u00e9 apr\u00e8s une derni\u00e8re \u00e9glise et une rencontre avec les p\u00e9cheurs huilliches de la c\u00f4te, qui pratiquent une p\u00eache \u00e0 pied pour le moins sportive. A Quellon nous embarquons avec \u00ab\u00a0Naviera Austral\u00a0\u00bb pour Puerto Cisnes o\u00f9 nous aborderons la Patagonie chilienne. Cette partie du Chili, bien que continentale,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1116,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/02\/22\/que-lindo-que-lindo\/","url_meta":{"origin":196,"position":2},"title":"\u00a1Que lindo ! \u00a1Que lindo !","author":"Philippe","date":"22 f\u00e9vrier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Trois mois depuis notre arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Santiago du Chili. Derri\u00e8re nous le grand sud du Chili, derri\u00e8re nous le sud de l\u2019Argentine et l\u2019immense Pampa d\u00e9sertique, derri\u00e8re nous les parcs argentins puis le nord-ouest de l\u2019Argentine, derri\u00e8re nous le nord chilien et l\u2019Atacama o\u00f9 il ne pleut jamais (oui\u00a0! jamais\u00a0!\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":62,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/11\/30\/lexperience-du-pisco-sour\/","url_meta":{"origin":196,"position":3},"title":"L\u2019exp\u00e9rience du Pisco Sour","author":"Philippe","date":"30 novembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Avant d\u2019entrer dans le vif du sujet, je vous soumets trois questions sur la course du soleil. A votre avis, \u00e0 Santiago du Chili, qui se situe dans l\u2019h\u00e9misph\u00e8re sud\u00a0: 1\/ O\u00f9 le soleil se trouve-t-il \u00e0 midi\u00a0: au sud ou au nord\u00a0? 2\/ O\u00f9 le soleil se l\u00e8ve-t-il\u00a0: \u00e0\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/dsc02459.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/dsc02459.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/dsc02459.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/dsc02459.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/dsc02459.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1332,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/03\/06\/comment-voyager-voiture-bus-avion-velo-cheval-pick-up-paquebot-camping-car-ferry\/","url_meta":{"origin":196,"position":4},"title":"Comment voyager? Voiture, bus, avion, v\u00e9lo, cheval, pick-up, paquebot, camping-car, ferry?","author":"Philippe","date":"6 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"En 15000 kilom\u00e8tres parcourus au Chili et en Argentine, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 bien des voyageurs, et bien des styles d'aventure. Petit bilan pour ceux qui pr\u00e9parent le voyage, ou ceux, plus nombreux, qui ne le pr\u00e9parent pas tout en y pensant. Garder \u00e0 l'esprit la loi universelle du voyage, selon\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":575,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/15\/detroit-de-magellan-le-mythe\/","url_meta":{"origin":196,"position":5},"title":"D\u00e9troit de Magellan, le mythe","author":"Philippe","date":"15 janvier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s le Perito Moreno en Argentine, poursuivant toujours plus sud nous revenons au Chili. Cinq guichets \u00e0 franchir et trois bonnes heures au poste fronti\u00e8re. Au cinqui\u00e8me et dernier guichet, un douanier chilien saisit les deux oranges et les deux avocats que nous transportons. Il les p\u00e8se sur un p\u00e8se-h\u00e9ro\u00efne,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"IMG_1025","src":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=350&h=200&crop=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=350&h=200&crop=1 1x, https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=525&h=300&crop=1 1.5x, https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/img_1025.jpg?w=700&h=400&crop=1 2x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=196"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2142,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/196\/revisions\/2142"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1072"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=196"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=196"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=196"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}