{"id":2445,"date":"2005-09-06T21:56:17","date_gmt":"2005-09-06T19:56:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/?p=2445"},"modified":"2017-04-19T08:39:51","modified_gmt":"2017-04-19T06:39:51","slug":"sur-les-cimes-boliviennes-a-plus-de-6000-le-huyna-potosi-le-parinacota","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2005\/09\/06\/sur-les-cimes-boliviennes-a-plus-de-6000-le-huyna-potosi-le-parinacota\/","title":{"rendered":"Sur les cimes boliviennes, \u00e0 plus de 6000, le Huyna Potosi, le Parinacota"},"content":{"rendered":"

La Bolivie nous a secou\u00e9s. C\u2019est un ailleurs. On ne triche pas avec le pays des Andes. En bas, dans l\u2019Altiplano, au pied des montagnes nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres. Dans les rues de la capitale, La Paz, ou sur les rives du lac Titicaca, \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres, il faut doser ses efforts. La cage thoracique se gonfle comme un ballon en cherchant l\u2019oxyg\u00e8ne, les cotes nous chatouillent pour quelques jours.<\/p>\n

Nous sommes venus ici pour monter au moins une fois \u00e0 6000 m\u00e8tres. Par curiosit\u00e9, par d\u00e9fi, comme aimant\u00e9s, les Andes viss\u00e9es dans notre imaginaire. Mille deux cents m\u00e8tres au-dessus du Mont Blanc, que nous \u00e9tions pourtant si fiers d\u2019avoir atteint.<\/p>\n

Alors c\u2019est le programme d\u2019acclimatation qui nous guide. La Paz pour deux \u00e0 trois jours, \u00e9tranges indiennes au petit chapeau melon, des escaliers partout pour nous tester. Les riches habitent en bas, \u00e0 3600 m\u00e8tres, tout est relatif, les pauvres en haut \u00e0 \u00ab\u00a0El Alto\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 plus de 4000 m\u00e8tres, encore plus de froid, encore moins d\u2019oxyg\u00e8ne, et des patates pour tous.<\/p>\n

\"\"\"\"<\/p>\n

Puis le lac Titicaca. Tr\u00e8s vite nous rejoignons la cordill\u00e8re pour un premier sommet \u00e0 plus de 5000 m\u00e8tres, c\u2019est le Pic Austria qui pointe \u00e0 5300 m\u00e8tres. Pas de difficult\u00e9, on s\u2019entraine \u00e0 marcher d\u2019un pas lent, tr\u00e8s lent. Splendide, on coche la case. Notre premier 5000.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

On encha\u00eene par une randonn\u00e9e de quelques jours entre 4000 et 5000.<\/p>\n

Vient ensuite l\u2019objectif, ce sera le Huayna Potosi, 6088 m\u00e8tres, tout proche de La Paz. R\u00e9put\u00e9 facile, oui mais pas tant. On rejoint le camp de base en fin de journ\u00e9e, une terrasse de pierre vers 5300 m\u00e8tres, o\u00f9 l\u2019on pose la tente bien plus qu\u2019on ne la plante.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Diner, nous avons un cuisinier, viande de lama, mais pas faim. Coucher vers 20 heures pour un r\u00e9veil \u00e0 minuit. Difficile de dormir, sol dur, froid terrible, stress. Minuit on se l\u00e8ve et on s\u2019\u00e9quipe en mode automatique. Notre guide bolivien inspire confiance. Frontales, on y va. On acc\u00e8de presque imm\u00e9diatement au glacier, crampons. A deux heures du matin, large crevasse \u00e0 franchir.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Elle est \u00e9quip\u00e9e d\u2019une \u00e9chelle qui joint les deux bords. Il faut passer l\u00e0-dessus, bof. Nuit, froid, c\u2019est quand m\u00eame impressionnant de crapahuter en \u00e9quilibre, tient, tient pas\u00a0? Marche d\u2019abord lente et longue, puis longue et lente, sur le glacier, la pente reste raisonnable. Vers six heures du matin, premi\u00e8re lueur dans l\u2019Est. Nous rejoignons les \u00ab\u00a0penitentes<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb vers 5800 ou 5900 m\u00e8tres. L\u2019\u00e9preuve est devant nous, bien plus qu’une p\u00e9nitence. Le glacier est tr\u00e8s ancien, sous-aliment\u00e9 en neige, sa surface s\u2019est stri\u00e9e de lames de deux \u00e0 trois m\u00e8tres de hauteur, espac\u00e9es de un \u00e0 deux m\u00e8tres, un profil de scie. La pente s\u2019est nettement relev\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\" \"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Saute-mouton jusqu\u2019en haut\u00a0! Des dizaines de lames de glace \u00e0 franchir. J\u2019ai les mains gel\u00e9es. Plus d\u2019eau, la gourde a gel\u00e9 depuis longtemps. Le guide est en t\u00eate et tracte Catherine. Je les suis, de plus en plus groggy. C\u2019est tr\u00e8s tr\u00e8s long, on respire mal dans ces \u00e9tages du haut. Nous sommes dans le syndrome \u00ab\u00a0on ne va pas quand m\u00eame pas renoncer maintenant\u00a0<\/em>\u00bb. Celui-ci nous pousse jusqu\u2019en haut, \u00e0 6088 m\u00e8tres.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

C\u2019est fait, on l\u2019a fait ce p\u2026 de 6000, on en chiale pour de bon. Compl\u00e8tement can\u00e9s. L\u2019Altiplano on le survole, les lumi\u00e8res tout en bas dans le lointain, c\u2019est La Paz.<\/p>\n

La douleur s\u2019oublie trop vite. La suite sera un volcan, le Sajama \u00e0 6542 m\u00e8tres ou le Parinacota \u00e0 6348 m\u00e8tres, sur la fronti\u00e8re compliqu\u00e9e entre la Bolivie et le Chili. Nous accomplissons un v\u00e9ritable p\u00e9riple pour rejoindre cette r\u00e9gion, avec d\u00e9tour par les grands salars, inoubliable.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Notre exp\u00e9dition comprend chauffeur, cuisinier et guide. Le Sajama trop difficile, l\u2019acc\u00e8s au glacier trop expos\u00e9. Nous laissons enfin le 4×4 pour un d\u00e9part dans l\u2019 apr\u00e8s-midi vers le camp de base du Parinacota, quel nom \u00e0 la Tintin\u00a0!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Probl\u00e8me, nous essuyons un violent vent de face, glacial, pour rejoindre le camp de base vers 5500 m\u00e8tres. Nous y arrivons tr\u00e8s tard, mal de crane bien install\u00e9, on pose les tentes sous le vent des blocs volcaniques. Le cuisinier tient \u00e0 nous pr\u00e9parer un diner, c\u2019est tr\u00e8s long, la t\u00eate explose, l\u2019estomac refuse ce ragout de lama. Impossible de dormir avant un d\u00e9part que nous repoussons \u00e0 cinq heures, tr\u00e8s tard. La toile claque. A l\u2019heure dite le vent siffle entre les blocs. Nous partons. On grimpe jusqu\u2019\u00e0 5900 m\u00e8tres dans un paysage lunaire, tout est noir, poussi\u00e8re noire, blocs noirs, et lumi\u00e8re aveuglante d\u00e8s le lever du soleil.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Catherine ressemble \u00e0 Armstrong, moi je suis Aldrin, le guide reste bolivien, thorax surgonfl\u00e9, regard fier, peau cuite au soleil d\u2019altitude.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

Le glacier ne d\u00e9marre qu\u2019au-del\u00e0 de 6000 m\u00e8tres. Nous n\u2019irons pas, mal de t\u00eate insurmontable, le plaisir a disparu depuis longtemps. Le Parinacota ne r\u00e9pond plus. Nous redescendons avant d\u2019avoir franchi une nouvelle fois la barri\u00e8re des 6000.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Trop dommage, mais c\u2019est la loi du genre. Nous sommes vivants, peut-\u00eatre que nous reviendrons.<\/p>\n

\"\" \"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La Bolivie nous a secou\u00e9s. C\u2019est un ailleurs. On ne triche pas avec le pays des Andes. En bas, dans l\u2019Altiplano, au pied des montagnes nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres. Dans les rues de la capitale, La Paz, ou sur les rives du lac Titicaca, \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres, il faut doser ses efforts. La […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2479,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[35],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2445","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bolivie"],"yoast_head":"\nSur les cimes boliviennes, \u00e0 plus de 6000, le Huyna Potosi, le Parinacota - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2005\/09\/06\/sur-les-cimes-boliviennes-a-plus-de-6000-le-huyna-potosi-le-parinacota\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sur les cimes boliviennes, \u00e0 plus de 6000, le Huyna Potosi, le Parinacota - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La Bolivie nous a secou\u00e9s. C\u2019est un ailleurs. On ne triche pas avec le pays des Andes. En bas, dans l\u2019Altiplano, au pied des montagnes nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres. Dans les rues de la capitale, La Paz, ou sur les rives du lac Titicaca, \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres, il faut doser ses efforts. 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C\u2019est un ailleurs. On ne triche pas avec le pays des Andes. En bas, dans l\u2019Altiplano, au pied des montagnes nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres. Dans les rues de la capitale, La Paz, ou sur les rives du lac Titicaca, \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres, il faut doser ses efforts. 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