{"id":282,"date":"2014-12-18T02:55:00","date_gmt":"2014-12-18T01:55:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=282"},"modified":"2017-03-22T16:17:21","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T15:17:21","slug":"le-cri-du-lion-dans-la-brume","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/18\/le-cri-du-lion-dans-la-brume\/","title":{"rendered":"Le cri du lion dans la brume"},"content":{"rendered":"

Chilo\u00e9 nous a retenu sur la route du sud. Notre curiosit\u00e9 y trouve son compte. Test du \u00abcuranto al hoyo<\/em>\u00bb \u00e0 Quetalmahue. Le curanto, si l\u2019on admet les d\u00e9finitions absurdes, c\u2019est un peu comme une choucroute de la mer sans chou, mais avec la mer quand m\u00eame. On garde les viandes fum\u00e9es, des moules \u00e9normes, des clams, et puis une galette de pomme de terre et de bl\u00e9. C’est le plat du dimanche des paysans p\u00eacheurs de l\u2019ile, pr\u00e9par\u00e9 et partag\u00e9 en communaut\u00e9. Nous l\u2019avons d\u00e9vor\u00e9 apr\u00e8s un parcours v\u00e9lo tr\u00e8s vallonn\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019aller, et le m\u00eame parcours au retour, plus vallonn\u00e9 encore.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_0819\"<\/a><\/p>\n

A Quemchi o\u00f9 a grandi Francisco Coloane, r\u00e9f\u00e9rence de l\u2019\u00e9criture puissante du Sud, fr\u00e8re de lettres d’Henri Queff\u00e9lec, visite de la maison qui lui est d\u00e9di\u00e9e. Nous sommes les deux seuls visiteurs de la journ\u00e9e, ravis.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02682\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"DSC02683\"<\/a><\/p>\n

A Huya sur l\u2019ile de Quinchao o\u00f9 nous sommes venus sur nos v\u00e9los d’un coup de bac et de reins, nous d\u00e9gustons une m\u00e9morable \u00abdocena de ostras<\/em>\u00bb. Dans ce petit resto, loin de tout, c’est un lettr\u00e9 qui nous re\u00e7oit. Pour le plaisir de faire conna\u00eetre ses huitres en \u00e9changeant sur la culture chilote et l’\u00e9tat du monde.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_0835\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Coup d’oeil sur les \u00ab\u00a0palafitos<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, l\u2019attraction de Castro, capitale de l’ile.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

D\u00e9couverte de fascinants chantiers de marine en bois, mus\u00e9es vivants de la charpenterie de marine. Notre respect pour ces hommes de m\u00e9tier.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Surprise, alors qu\u2019attabl\u00e9s dans un palafito nous profitions des \u00ab\u00a0congrio<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb et \u00ab\u00a0merlusa<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, nous voyons \u00e9merger deux t\u00eates de lions de mer. Juste l\u00e0, en ville, devant les pilotis qui nous supportent, comme les chanteurs de rue.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous avons bien aim\u00e9 Chonchi sur la c\u00f4te Est avec ses bateaux de p\u00eache. Notamment un gros bateau qui p\u00eache dans les parcs \u00e0 saumons. Pas compliqu\u00e9e la p\u00eache. Le bateau dispose d\u2019un aspirateur surpuissant qu\u2019il plonge dans le bac \u00e0 saumons. Les malheureux saumons, qui d\u00e9j\u00e0 n\u2019ont pas eu une vie fantastique, sont suc\u00e9s par une grosse gaine d\u2019aspiration, puis \u00e9ject\u00e9s sur le pont sur une table de travail. L\u00e0 on leur donne un bon coup de masse sur la t\u00eate. \u00ab\u00a0Muertos<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb les saumons\u00a0! On les vide et les d\u00e9coupe. Une autre gaine de refoulement propulse alors le produit fini vers la cale. Grace au p\u00eacheur chilote qui nous a fi\u00e8rement d\u00e9taill\u00e9 cela, nos connaissances en espagnol piscicole ont fait un bond. Mais le go\u00fbt de manger du saumon recul\u00e9 d’autant.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous avons encore plus aim\u00e9 Cucao sur la c\u00f4te Ouest, au bord du Pacifique, pour son air de bout de la route, comme le Biscarosse de notre enfance. L\u2019endroit se trouve \u00e0 la fois \u00e0 l\u2019extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 du tr\u00e8s grand lac Huillinco, et derri\u00e8re une immense et rugueuse plage, o\u00f9 d\u00e9ferlent bruyamment des rouleaux larges d\u2019un kilom\u00e8tre. Mais il est aussi \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e du Parc National Chilo\u00e9, essentiellement compos\u00e9 de for\u00eat humide, ambiance Tim Burton.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous nous y sommes pos\u00e9s pour trois jours, avec notamment l\u2019objectif d\u2019y voir la colonie de lions de mer \u00e9tablie sur une pointe \u00e0 environ 10 kilom\u00e8tres au sud de Cucao. Par une journ\u00e9e o\u00f9 le temps s\u2019annonce tr\u00e8s beau, apr\u00e8s un magnifique lever de soleil, apr\u00e8s la toilette du vautour, nous quittons le meilleur h\u00f4tel de l\u2019endroit, \u00e0 v\u00e9lo, sur la piste menant aux lions.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Pas une partie de plaisir la piste\u00a0! Ca monte et \u00e7a descend grave, sur une piste tr\u00e8s gondol\u00e9e. Il faut mettre pied \u00e0 terre en mont\u00e9e, mais surtout en descente, sauf \u00e0 d\u00e9visser. Le paysage est splendide. Encore plus splendide avec la brume qui monte du Pacifique et s\u2019\u00e9paissit. La lumi\u00e8re se tamise. Une bonne occasion de passer en mode noir et blanc. Extase\u00a0! Le Pacifique, la brume, la piste, les v\u00e9los, le noir et blanc, les lions de mer au bout \u2026<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

On r\u00e9cup\u00e8re dans une ferme du bout du bout du monde, pour 1500 pesos\/personne, la cl\u00e9 qui ouvrira le chemin d\u2019acc\u00e8s aux lions.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Encore un bon kilom\u00e8tre sur la piste mal carross\u00e9e mais bien caboss\u00e9e, puis encore un kilom\u00e8tre sur un sentier saute-moutons pour arriver \u00e0 la pointe. En rentrant on s\u2019inscrira \u00e0 Fort Boyard. Le sentier plonge enfin vers le belv\u00e9d\u00e8re o\u00f9 l\u2019on verra les lions.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Mais, fichtre, on ne les voit pas les lions, parce que cette brume adverse nous les cache\u00a0!!! Apr\u00e8s tous ces efforts\u00a0! Alors on attend l\u00e0 que la Madame la Grande Brume du Pacifique veuille bien se lever, m\u00eame si nous sommes dimanche matin.<\/p>\n

Soudain on entend par-dessus le ressac un mugissement tragique qui monte, puis un autre en \u00e9cho, puis encore un autre. Ils sont bien l\u00e0 les lions de mer, \u00e0 port\u00e9e d\u2019ou\u00efe. Mais pas \u00e0 port\u00e9e de vue. Perch\u00e9s sur notre falaise, dans cette brume qui nous voile, ces mugissements \u00e9tranges, le ressac qui tape dur, le moment a quelque chose de fort \u2026 Il faudrait mettre \u00e7a en comprim\u00e9s pour les jours sans relief.<\/p>\n

On ne verra pas les lions de mer aujourd\u2019hui. Mais on aura entendu le cri du lion dans la brume, la brume de Chilo\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Hasta luego<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Chilo\u00e9 nous a retenu sur la route du sud. Notre curiosit\u00e9 y trouve son compte. Test du \u00abcuranto al hoyo\u00bb \u00e0 Quetalmahue. Le curanto, si l\u2019on admet les d\u00e9finitions absurdes, c\u2019est un peu comme une choucroute de la mer sans chou, mais avec la mer quand m\u00eame. On garde les viandes fum\u00e9es, des moules \u00e9normes, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":171,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[10],"tags":[14],"class_list":["post-282","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-chili"],"yoast_head":"\nLe cri du lion dans la brume - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/18\/le-cri-du-lion-dans-la-brume\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Le cri du lion dans la brume - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Chilo\u00e9 nous a retenu sur la route du sud. 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Notre curiosit\u00e9 y trouve son compte. Test du \u00abcuranto al hoyo\u00bb \u00e0 Quetalmahue. Le curanto, si l\u2019on admet les d\u00e9finitions absurdes, c\u2019est un peu comme une choucroute de la mer sans chou, mais avec la mer quand m\u00eame. 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Nous embarquons \u00e0 Pargua pour la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre ile de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01204-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01204-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01204-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01204-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01204-1.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3791,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2018\/02\/27\/a-punta-gallinas-atteignons-cap-nord-de-lamerique-sud\/","url_meta":{"origin":282,"position":1},"title":"A la Punta Gallinas, nous atteignons le cap nord de l’Am\u00e9rique du Sud","author":"Philippe","date":"27 f\u00e9vrier 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Un objectif de notre voyage en Colombie \u00e9tait de toucher l'extr\u00eame nord de l'Am\u00e9rique du sud, pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment la Punta Gallinas, la pointe des poules, dans la mer des Cara\u00efbes. En effet, il y a cinq ans, nous avions atteint l'extr\u00eame sud de l'Am\u00e9rique continentale, au Chili, en bordure du d\u00e9troit\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Colombie"","block_context":{"text":"Colombie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/colombie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/IMG_6621.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/IMG_6621.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/IMG_6621.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/IMG_6621.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/IMG_6621.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":575,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/15\/detroit-de-magellan-le-mythe\/","url_meta":{"origin":282,"position":2},"title":"D\u00e9troit de Magellan, le mythe","author":"Philippe","date":"15 janvier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Apr\u00e8s le Perito Moreno en Argentine, poursuivant toujours plus sud nous revenons au Chili. Cinq guichets \u00e0 franchir et trois bonnes heures au poste fronti\u00e8re. Au cinqui\u00e8me et dernier guichet, un douanier chilien saisit les deux oranges et les deux avocats que nous transportons. 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A Quellon nous embarquons avec \u00ab\u00a0Naviera Austral\u00a0\u00bb pour Puerto Cisnes o\u00f9 nous aborderons la Patagonie chilienne. Cette partie du Chili, bien que continentale,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1116,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/02\/22\/que-lindo-que-lindo\/","url_meta":{"origin":282,"position":5},"title":"\u00a1Que lindo ! \u00a1Que lindo !","author":"Philippe","date":"22 f\u00e9vrier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Trois mois depuis notre arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Santiago du Chili. Derri\u00e8re nous le grand sud du Chili, derri\u00e8re nous le sud de l\u2019Argentine et l\u2019immense Pampa d\u00e9sertique, derri\u00e8re nous les parcs argentins puis le nord-ouest de l\u2019Argentine, derri\u00e8re nous le nord chilien et l\u2019Atacama o\u00f9 il ne pleut jamais (oui\u00a0! jamais\u00a0!\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/dsc05277.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/282","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=282"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/282\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2140,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/282\/revisions\/2140"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/171"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=282"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=282"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=282"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}