{"id":3715,"date":"2018-02-24T09:00:29","date_gmt":"2018-02-24T08:00:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/?p=3715"},"modified":"2018-03-06T13:32:47","modified_gmt":"2018-03-06T12:32:47","slug":"wiwas-peuple-vivant-de-cite-perdue","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2018\/02\/24\/wiwas-peuple-vivant-de-cite-perdue\/","title":{"rendered":"Les Wiwas, peuple vivant de la Cit\u00e9 Perdue"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous avons rejoint le nord de la Colombie, en bordure de la mer Cara\u00efbe, pour notamment y faire le trek de la Cit\u00e9 Perdue dans la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta.<\/p>\n

Nous l’avons ressenti comme une aventure spirituelle.<\/p>\n

Bien sur il y a la marche pour rejoindre la Cit\u00e9 Perdue, trois jours pleins, ido y vuelta, \u00e0 un rythme soutenu. Lever \u00e0 5h du matin, etc… Jungle, passages \u00e0 gu\u00e9, chaleur, humidit\u00e9, transpiration \u00e0 tremper les v\u00eatements, moustiques invisibles mais terriblement voraces… \u00e7a se m\u00e9rite, nous \u00e9tions pr\u00e9venus, nous sommes entra\u00een\u00e9s, pas de probl\u00e8me.<\/p>\n

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La baignade dans les piscines naturelles qui jalonnent le parcours sont un vrai bonheur.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

L’organisation du trek est d’ailleurs remarquable: h\u00e9bergements, ravitaillements, services, si l’on accepte une certaine promiscuit\u00e9 et l’hygi\u00e8ne minimaliste.<\/p>\n

Nous faisons partie d’un groupe de 11 randonneurs, \u00e0 forte majorit\u00e9 fran\u00e7aise, parmi d’autres groupes. Entre 100 et 200 marcheurs s’\u00e9lancent chaque jour vers la cit\u00e9 perdue, europ\u00e9ens, am\u00e9ricains, c’est tr\u00e8s joyeux. La plupart vivent le trek fa\u00e7on Indiana Jones et se testent. Nous mis \u00e0 part, il n’y a que des moins de trente ans, qui se selfient \u00e0 tous les arr\u00eats, cherchez l’erreur. On est un peu plus diesel, \u00e2ge et exp\u00e9rience de la randonn\u00e9e, mais nous ne serons pas recal\u00e9s \u00e0 l’examen, merci au jury.<\/p>\n

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Sur le chemin nous croisons des enfants Wiwas. Ils seraient comme tous les enfants du monde, joueurs, tant\u00f4t rieurs, tant\u00f4t surpris, s’ils n’\u00e9taient tous v\u00eatus d’un m\u00eame morceau de toile \u00e9crue, tach\u00e9e, hors d’\u00e2ge. Comme leurs parents … Comment leur dire bonjour? Notre guide, Gabo, un Wiwa nous donne la clef, \u00ab\u00a0Djoui mine touna\u00a0\u00bb, et s’ils sont plusieurs \u00ab\u00a0Djoui m\u00e8ne touna\u00a0\u00bb, une langue tr\u00e8s sophistiqu\u00e9e qui accorde le bonjour. Premiers indices.<\/p>\n

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Devant le pueblito Wiwa que nous longeons, Gabo nous fait une pr\u00e9sentation de la vie, plus exactement des principes de vie Wiwas. C’est assez difficile \u00e0 suivre, car sa pr\u00e9sentation est plus inspir\u00e9e qu’organis\u00e9e, quelque peu circulaire aussi, mais il en ressort que la culture Wiwa est \u00e0 la fois extraordinairement riche, extraordinairement ancienne et, en m\u00eame temps, plus moderne que jamais. Elle rel\u00e8ve d’une mystique de la nature, dont tous les \u00e9l\u00e9ments sont compris comme vivants et reli\u00e9s par de subtils rapports d’\u00e9quilibre. Si les Wiwas cultivent pour leurs besoins, c’est toujours avec un soin extr\u00eame de ne pas d\u00e9ranger la nature, et surtout de ne rompre aucun \u00e9quilibre.<\/p>\n

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L’\u00e9nergie et la conscience sont les piliers sur lesquels  ils fondent leur humanit\u00e9. Ils s’attachent \u00e0 les d\u00e9velopper d\u00e8s l’enfance, ils les stimulent aussi en m\u00e2chant des feuilles de coca \u00e0 peine s\u00e9ch\u00e9es, comme nous utilisons le caf\u00e9, loin de toute id\u00e9e de drogue. Pour eux tout rapport de domination est proscrit, les d\u00e9cisions se prennent en commun, au terme de d\u00e9bats tr\u00e8s approfondis.
\nLes Wiwas pensent que leur territoire, la Sierra Nevada, splendide massif qui culmine \u00e0 5700 m\u00e8tres en bordure de la mer Cara\u00efbe, est l’origine et le c\u0153ur du monde. Il leur appartient de le prot\u00e9ger \u00e0 jamais, parce que s’il \u00e9tait abim\u00e9 ou d\u00e9truit, alors la Terre toute enti\u00e8re serait d\u00e9truite. Ils sont des fr\u00e8res majeurs, pleinement conscients, quand les autres sont des fr\u00e8res mineurs, qui ne r\u00e9alisent pas les cons\u00e9quences de leurs actes.
\nSans \u00e9criture, seul l’oral assure depuis toujours la transmission de leur savoir, un \u00e9norme stock de connaissances. Dix-huit ann\u00e9es d’une vie recluse sont n\u00e9cessaires pour la formation des Mamos, d\u00e9tenteurs de la connaissance et de la sagesse. Etc.
\nAujourd’hui 15000 Wiwas vivent dans cette culture, r\u00e9sistant depuis 500 ans \u00e0 l’\u00e9norme pression et \u00e0 la violence de la civilisation occidentale pourtant \u00e0 leur porte! Stup\u00e9fiant, une le\u00e7on.
\nAlors, quand, au troisi\u00e8me jour de trek nous attaquons the stairway to heaven, l’escalier tr\u00e8s raide de 1200 marches qui monte \u00e0 Teyuna, la Cit\u00e9 perdue, nous savons que nous montons vers un lieu sacr\u00e9 entre tous. Nous y entrons enfin apr\u00e9s un rite de purification destin\u00e9 \u00e0 nous d\u00e9barrasser de toute pens\u00e9e n\u00e9gative.<\/p>\n

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L\u00e0, les anc\u00eatres des Wiwas, les Tayronas, \u00e9taient \u00e9tablis des si\u00e8cles avant les Incas, l\u00e0, ils b\u00e2tirent une ville de la taille du Machu Pichu, et de l\u00e0, leur culture s’\u00e9tendait sur toute la r\u00e9gion, peupl\u00e9e de centaines de milliers de Tayronas, l’ethnie dont les Wiwas sont aujourd’hui les descendants, comme trois autres tribus, les Arhuacos, les Kogis et les Kankuamos.
\nUne merveille. Une quantit\u00e9 de terrasses circulaires sur lesquelles \u00e9taient b\u00e2ties leurs maisons, toutes reli\u00e9es par des all\u00e9es de pierre, des escaliers de pierre.<\/p>\n

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Une harmonie parfaite dans les formes, l’\u00e9tagement des terrasses dans les pentes, dans un extraordinaire \u00e9tat de conservation. Tout ce qu’on d\u00e9signe aujourd’hui par urbanisme est pr\u00e9sent.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nLes Tayronas l’auraient abandonn\u00e9e au d\u00e9but du XVIeme si\u00e8cle quand les Mamos, par divination, anticip\u00e8rent l’arriv\u00e9e des fr\u00e8res mineurs, une menace grave. Les habitants de Teyuna se dispers\u00e8rent alors dans la Sierra Nevada.<\/p>\n

Lorsque dans les ann\u00e9es 1970 Teyuna fut rep\u00e9r\u00e9e par des pilleurs de tombes, puis identifi\u00e9e par les autorit\u00e9s, on pr\u00e9tendit \u00e0 une d\u00e9couverte. On voulut ignorer que les Wiwas la connaissaient parfaitement et s’y rendaient depuis toujours pour v\u00e9n\u00e9rer leurs anc\u00eatres… Ainsi naquit l’appellation biais\u00e9 de Ciudad Perdida qui nous y a fait courir.<\/p>\n

Quand nous visitons Teyuna, elle est prot\u00e9g\u00e9e par l’arm\u00e9e, avec des soldats partout tr\u00e8s visibles. L’arm\u00e9e est ici depuis que l’ELN y prit des visiteurs en otage, emmen\u00e9s pour quelques mois dans la jungle. De nombreux trekkeurs sont ici admiratifs comme nous, les jambes constell\u00e9es de piq\u00fbres de moustiques.<\/p>\n

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Un h\u00e9licopt\u00e8re de la police nous survole pour se poser sur une terrasse … et y d\u00e9poser des touristes.<\/p>\n

Ce diaporama n\u00e9cessite JavaScript.<\/p>

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En Colombie la police a l’habitude de faire payer ses services … une irruption bien loin de la culture Wiwa.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Hasta luego.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nous avons rejoint le nord de la Colombie, en bordure de la mer Cara\u00efbe, pour notamment y faire le trek de la Cit\u00e9 Perdue dans la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Nous l’avons ressenti comme une aventure spirituelle. Bien sur il y a la marche pour rejoindre la Cit\u00e9 Perdue, trois jours pleins, ido y […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3725,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[50],"tags":[75,76,91,78,79,77],"class_list":["post-3715","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-colombie","tag-cite-perdue","tag-ciudad-perdida","tag-kogi","tag-tayrona","tag-teyuna","tag-wiwa"],"yoast_head":"\nLes Wiwas, peuple vivant de la Cit\u00e9 Perdue - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2018\/02\/24\/wiwas-peuple-vivant-de-cite-perdue\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Les Wiwas, peuple vivant de la Cit\u00e9 Perdue - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nous avons rejoint le nord de la Colombie, en bordure de la mer Cara\u00efbe, pour notamment y faire le trek de la Cit\u00e9 Perdue dans la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. 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Nous l’avons ressenti comme une aventure spirituelle. 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Une nouvelle chance d'aller nous y confronter. Les possibilit\u00e9s n\u00e9anmoins ne sont pas immenses car l'acc\u00e8s aux sommets est limit\u00e9 par les risques d'\u00e9ruption ou encore par les populations indig\u00e8nes qui en interdisent l'ascension. Le Nevado del\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Colombie"","block_context":{"text":"Colombie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/colombie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC01862.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC01862.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC01862.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC01862.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC01862.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3610,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2018\/02\/16\/don-felipe-sevissaient-farc\/","url_meta":{"origin":3715,"position":3},"title":"Don Felipe o\u00f9 s\u00e9vissaient les FARC","author":"Philippe","date":"16 f\u00e9vrier 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Notre support en Colombie, Aventure Colombia, nous avait propos\u00e9 un trek au nom prometteur, \"El camino verde\", trois jours dans la Cordillera centrale, au coeur de l'Antioquia, \u00e0 l'est de Medellin. Nous avions alors coch\u00e9 la case. Aussi lever \u00e0 5 heures du matin pour rejoindre en voiture le point\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Colombie"","block_context":{"text":"Colombie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/colombie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC02115.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC02115.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC02115.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC02115.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/LRG_DSC02115.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":4079,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2018\/03\/04\/nos-photos-preferees-de-colombie\/","url_meta":{"origin":3715,"position":4},"title":"Nos photos pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9es de Colombie","author":"Philippe","date":"4 mars 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Et pour finir ... merci \u00e0 Aventure Colombia, l'agence qui nous a permis de r\u00e9aliser ce voyage de six semaines en Colombie, en particulier les treks en haute montagne et dans les r\u00e9gions recul\u00e9es. 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