{"id":448,"date":"2014-12-27T14:02:54","date_gmt":"2014-12-27T13:02:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=448"},"modified":"2017-03-22T16:14:06","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T15:14:06","slug":"sur-le-glaciar-exploradores-une-glace-millenaire-sous-les-crampons","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/27\/sur-le-glaciar-exploradores-une-glace-millenaire-sous-les-crampons\/","title":{"rendered":"Sur le Glaciar Exploradores, une glace mill\u00e9naire sous les crampons"},"content":{"rendered":"

Le \u00ab\u00a0Campo Hielo Norte<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, champ de glaces nord de la Patagonie, pr\u00e9sente la superficie d\u2019un d\u00e9partement fran\u00e7ais. Cinquante fois plus grand que nos grands glaciers de la Vanoise. Depuis cette \u00e9norme masse de glace situ\u00e9e en altitude, coulent des glaciers jusqu\u2019au niveau de la mer, charriant une glace form\u00e9e il y a des milliers d’ann\u00e9es. On voit bien la bordure Est du Campo depuis la route qui longe le lac \u00ab\u00a0G\u00e9n\u00e9ral Carrera<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, formant un cadre imposant.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous optons pour randonner sur le glacier le plus facile d\u2019acc\u00e8s depuis Puerto Rio Tranquillo, o\u00f9 nous s\u00e9journons pour deux jours dans une caba\u00f1a<\/em> cinq \u00e9toiles, pieds dans le grand lac.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est le \u00abGlaciar Exploradores<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, situ\u00e9 \u00e0 52 kilom\u00e8tre de l\u00e0. Nous nous y rendons avec un jeune guide, qui nous conduit en roulant \u00e0 tombeau ouvert sur la piste \u00e0 voie unique. Il m\u2019explique qu\u2019il mise sur le fait que nous ne croiserons personne \u00e0 cette heure matinale pour attaquer \u00e0 bloc virages et hauts de c\u00f4te, sans aucune visibilit\u00e9. Nous croiserons tout de m\u00eame deux pick-up, heureusement sur une portion sans danger o\u00f9 l’on peut se garer sur le c\u00f4t\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02936\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s cette \u00e9preuve nous pouvons attaquer la partie la moins risqu\u00e9e de la journ\u00e9e, la randonn\u00e9e sur le glacier. Nous rejoignons un petit lac \u00e0 l’eau terreuse, entour\u00e9 de caillasses, typique d’un lac glaciaire, exutoire des eaux de fonte.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02839\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On s\u2019\u00e9l\u00e8ve alors sur la moraine pour d\u00e9boucher sur un terrain assez extraordinaire. On a l\u2019impression d\u2019\u00eatre sur un immense chantier o\u00f9 les scrappers seraient devenus fous, accumulant de gigantesques tas de gravats dans tous les sens. Nous commen\u00e7ons \u00e0 marcher sur ce terrain chaotique. Grimpant sur un tas, je chute lourdement sans comprendre ce qui m\u2019arrive. Me relevant je vois que j\u2019ai gliss\u00e9 sur de la glace, l\u00e0, juste sous une fine couche de terre. C\u2019est de la glace noire, noire parce qu\u2019elle ne re\u00e7oit aucune lumi\u00e8re, mais sp\u00e9cialement glissante. Nous r\u00e9alisons que nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 sur le glacier.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02860\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC02850\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC02856\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC02847\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les tas de terre et de pierre recouvrent la partie finale du glacier. Ce sont des collines de tr\u00e8s vieille glace qui supportent tous les mat\u00e9riaux arrach\u00e9s par le glacier \u00e0 la montagne. Collines form\u00e9es par la pression chaotique des courants de glace et la fonte. Nous avan\u00e7ons et la terre laisse maintenant la place \u00e0 la glace vive. Nous chaussons\u00a0 les crampons. C\u2019est un terrain d\u00e9sordonn\u00e9, crevass\u00e9, avec des trous b\u00e9ants, des rivi\u00e8res qui glougoutent dans la profondeur, des arches de glace, des grottes, des corniches, des sculptures monumentales, des mares d\u2019une eau translucide. Nous ne sommes qu\u2019\u00e0 120 m\u00e8tres d\u2019altitude, c\u2019est troublant d\u2019\u00eatre ici sur cette masse de glace.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02876\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC02923\"<\/a>\"DSC02882\"<\/a>\"DSC02905\"<\/a>\"DSC02892\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC02907\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous avan\u00e7ons encore d\u2019un bon kilom\u00e8tre en direction d\u2019un large front de s\u00e9racs, au bas de derni\u00e8re pente o\u00f9 la glace se fracture. Malheureusement notre guide interrompt la progression, pr\u00e9tendant que la zone situ\u00e9e devant nous est dangereuse. Possible. Peut-\u00eatre\u00a0 qu\u2019il est\u00a0simplement l\u2019heure de revenir \u2026 Nous faisons alors la photo qui s\u2019impose.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02919\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Hasta luego<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le \u00ab\u00a0Campo Hielo Norte\u00a0\u00bb, champ de glaces nord de la Patagonie, pr\u00e9sente la superficie d\u2019un d\u00e9partement fran\u00e7ais. Cinquante fois plus grand que nos grands glaciers de la Vanoise. Depuis cette \u00e9norme masse de glace situ\u00e9e en altitude, coulent des glaciers jusqu\u2019au niveau de la mer, charriant une glace form\u00e9e il y a des milliers d’ann\u00e9es. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":423,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[10],"tags":[14],"class_list":["post-448","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-chili"],"yoast_head":"\nSur le Glaciar Exploradores, une glace mill\u00e9naire sous les crampons - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/27\/sur-le-glaciar-exploradores-une-glace-millenaire-sous-les-crampons\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sur le Glaciar Exploradores, une glace mill\u00e9naire sous les crampons - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Le \u00ab\u00a0Campo Hielo Norte\u00a0\u00bb, champ de glaces nord de la Patagonie, pr\u00e9sente la superficie d\u2019un d\u00e9partement fran\u00e7ais. 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Conseils: cliquer sur l'onglet dossier , en haut \u00e0 gauche de l'affichage, pour voir le sommaire du blog et les commentaires les plus r\u00e9cents. Pour voir les photos en plein \u00e9cran cliquer dessus. Quand les guides de voyage parlent d'une destination \u00ab\u00a0incontournable\u00a0\u00bb\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Capture","src":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/01\/capture.png?w=350&h=200&crop=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":513,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/02\/el-fitz-roy-es-una-diva\/","url_meta":{"origin":448,"position":1},"title":"El Fitz Roy es una diva","author":"Philippe","date":"2 janvier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"El Fitz Roy es una diva. Il y a une semaine nous avons pos\u00e9 nos roues en Argentine et piqu\u00e9 au 180\u00b0, plein sud vers le Parque National Los Glaciares, par la Ruta 40 . Etrange route que cette route 40. 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C\u2019est un ailleurs. On ne triche pas avec le pays des Andes. En bas, dans l\u2019Altiplano, au pied des montagnes nous sommes d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres. Dans les rues de la capitale, La Paz, ou sur les rives du lac Titicaca, \u00e0 4000 m\u00e8tres, il\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Bolivie"","block_context":{"text":"Bolivie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/bolivie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/290-Bolivie-2005.jpg?fit=1200%2C662&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/290-Bolivie-2005.jpg?fit=1200%2C662&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/290-Bolivie-2005.jpg?fit=1200%2C662&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/290-Bolivie-2005.jpg?fit=1200%2C662&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/290-Bolivie-2005.jpg?fit=1200%2C662&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1117,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/02\/27\/dans-la-vallee-de-lelqui-aux-sources-du-pisco\/","url_meta":{"origin":448,"position":3},"title":"Dans la vall\u00e9e de l’Elqui, aux sources du Pisco","author":"Philippe","date":"27 f\u00e9vrier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous quittons notre curieux studio de la Pointe de Choros, am\u00e9nag\u00e9 dans la pointe avant d'un chalutier naufrag\u00e9, pour rejoindre la ville de La Serena. Mais cette ancienne capitale se r\u00e9v\u00e8le moins sereine qu'annonc\u00e9, avec nombre de chiliens en goguette, et surtout d'\u00e9normes voitures qui encombrent les petites rues. L'h\u00f4tel,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/600015.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/600015.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/600015.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/600015.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/02\/600015.jpg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":465,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/30\/rio-baker-bleu-turquoise-ou-vert-emeraude\/","url_meta":{"origin":448,"position":4},"title":"Rio Baker, bleu turquoise ou vert \u00e9meraude ?","author":"Philippe","date":"30 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Arriv\u00e9s au lac G\u00e9n\u00e9ral Carrera, nous devrions mettre le cap sur l\u2019Argentine et passer la fronti\u00e8re \u00e0 Chile Chico (Los Antiguos en Argentine). La voie argentine est le seul moyen de gagner le tr\u00e8s grand Sud par la fameuse Ruta 40, et notamment les parcs Los Glaciares en Argentine et\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1064,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/13\/cote-austral-1\/","url_meta":{"origin":448,"position":5},"title":"C\u00f4t\u00e9 austral (1)","author":"Philippe","date":"13 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"S\u2019agissant de d\u00e9coration, chacun a ses go\u00fbts. Personnellement j\u2019ai de la sympathie pour le kitsch. Mais d\u00e9fendant un jour que les gens qui mettent des \u00ab\u00a0nains de jardin\u00a0\u00bb pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment dans leur jardin, font vertu de leur simplicit\u00e9, je me rendis compte que je passais pour un cr\u00e9tin. Quoi, d\u00e9fendre les\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00832.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/448","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=448"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/448\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2138,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/448\/revisions\/2138"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/423"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=448"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=448"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=448"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}