{"id":4826,"date":"2019-02-24T02:47:40","date_gmt":"2019-02-24T01:47:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/?p=4826"},"modified":"2019-02-26T04:09:58","modified_gmt":"2019-02-26T03:09:58","slug":"dans-la-campagne-cubaine-aux-sources-du-cigare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2019\/02\/24\/dans-la-campagne-cubaine-aux-sources-du-cigare\/","title":{"rendered":"Dans la campagne cubaine, aux sources du cigare"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A Vinales, dans l\u2019ouest de Cuba, la campagne se feuillette comme un livre d\u2019enfants, livre d\u2019images illustrant les cultures \u00e0 l\u2019ancienne, boeufs, chevaux, charrues et charrois, labours et semis, champs de tabac ou de manioc, fiers guajiros, les paysans d\u2019ici, durs au travail de la terre, qui pompent sur leur cigare en toutes circonstances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Nous testons diff\u00e9rentes m\u00e9thodes d\u2019exploration, \u00e0 cheval, \u00e0 bicyclette, \u00e0 pied, mais aussi en carriole et camion de terre…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A chaque rencontre nous engageons la conversation. Les cubains adorent \u00e9changer, tr\u00e8s vite ils s\u2019enflamment, vous tapotent l\u2019\u00e9paule, puis le dos,  bref ils ont le contact facile. C\u2019est aussi tr\u00e8s utile, car pour nous qui sortons des sentiers battus, il n\u2019y a ni panneaux, ni balisage, ni rien, nada de nada. On navigue donc au smartphone avec une appli super, maps.me, ainsi qu\u2019avec les informations glan\u00e9es aupr\u00e8s des locaux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Au fond d\u2019une vall\u00e9e perdue, avant d\u2019engager la travers\u00e9e de vingt-cinq kilom\u00e8tres d\u2019une for\u00eat d\u00e9serte, un paysan nous pr\u00e9vient qu\u2019il y aura une rivi\u00e8re \u00e0 traverser \u00e0 gu\u00e9 en portant nos v\u00e9los, avec de l\u2019eau jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la ceinture. Et le capitaine nous dit d\u2019avancer… Cette information se r\u00e9v\u00e8le parfaitement exacte. Dommage qu\u2019un pneu cr\u00e8ve juste apr\u00e8s le gu\u00e9, car dix kilom\u00e8tres de piste sur la jante c\u2019est \u00e9prouvant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La campagne est riche, les commerces sont vides. On est beaucoup plus sur d\u2019y trouver une vieille affiche de Fidel ou du Che qu\u2019une bouteille d\u2019eau. C\u2019est ubuesque. Pourquoi des gens tiennent-ils \u00e0 longueur de journ\u00e9e des commerces o\u00f9 il n\u2019y a rien \u00e0 vendre? Quel en est le business plan? Surveiller les all\u00e9es et venues de la population?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Et pourquoi telle boulangerie, j\u2019utilise le mot pour simplifier, ne vend-elle qu\u2019aux cubains, quand telle autre accepte, non sans difficult\u00e9 de nous c\u00e9der quelques bouts de simili pain? Pourquoi les gens doivent-ils se pousser du coude pour des oranges et des radis noirs, dans cette terre o\u00f9 tout pousse facilement?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A Vinales se pr\u00e9sentent quelques \u00e9l\u00e9ments de r\u00e9ponse. Dans la pseudo-librairie aux rayons aussi \u00e9tiques qu\u2019\u00e9tatiques, on rep\u00e8re ce titre remarquable \u00ab La pens\u00e9e \u00e9conomique d\u2019Hugo Chavez \u00bb, seul de la section \u00e9conomie. On sait la r\u00e9ussite de cette pens\u00e9e, qui a conduit en peu d\u2019ann\u00e9es le pays le plus riche d\u2019Am\u00e9rique Latine \u00e0 la famine. Le livre s\u2019avachit sur son \u00e9tag\u00e8re, on h\u00e9site \u00e0 l\u2019acqu\u00e9rir pour l\u2019offrir \u00e0 Jean-Luc M\u00e9lenchon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sur la petite place centrale, samedi soir, se tient un meeting politique. C\u2019est un appel \u00e0 voter oui lors du tout prochain de r\u00e9f\u00e9rendum sur la modification de la constitution cubaine. Depuis notre arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Cuba, nous voyons partout des appels \u00e0 voter oui, selon le voeu du pouvoir, mais encore aucun appel \u00e0 voter non. Le meeting est parfaitement r\u00e9gl\u00e9. Des chants patriotiques invitent \u00e0 s\u2019y rendre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cinquante oblig\u00e9s du pouvoir finissent par prendre place devant la tribune. Apr\u00e8s une longue attente, un barde cubain, po\u00e8te officiel et digne descendant d\u2019Assurancetourix, guitare en main, nous scande une chanson \u00e9difiante. Le speaker cite alors les nombreux noms des caciques soutenant le meeting. Pour chacun d\u2019eux, le maigre public fait la claque d\u2019un seul bloc, selon un code fig\u00e9, clac…. clac, clac, clac. Les chants patriotiques reprennent, et alors nous partons, on n\u2019en peut plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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De retour au g\u00eete je demande \u00e0 notre h\u00f4te s\u2019il est possible de voter non. Il m\u2019examine comme un extraterrestre. Dans un pays o\u00f9 le prix du tabac est fix\u00e9 pour chaque parcelle par le gouvernement, et o\u00f9 chaque quartier est contr\u00f4l\u00e9 par un comit\u00e9 de surveillance, il y a des erreurs \u00e0 ne pas commettre.
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\u00ab Des guajiros nous sommes pr\u00eats \u00e0 endurer le joug,<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ruminent les boeufs attel\u00e9s dans leur dur labour,<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tant que ces paysans, cultivant manioc et tabac,<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grace au cigare, accomplissent sans peine ce travail tr\u00e8s lourd<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et que de la r\u00e9volution, \u00e0 leur tour, ils supportent le joug.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Et si l\u2019on nous consultait nous aussi, les boeufs de Cuba<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tous ensemble, nous braierions \u00ab yo voto si\u00bb, pour rester bien en cour. \u00bb<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A Vinales, dans l\u2019ouest de Cuba, la campagne se feuillette comme un livre d\u2019enfants, livre d\u2019images illustrant les cultures \u00e0 l\u2019ancienne, boeufs, chevaux, charrues et charrois, labours et semis, champs de tabac ou de manioc, fiers guajiros, les paysans d\u2019ici, durs au travail de la terre, qui pompent sur leur cigare en toutes circonstances. Nous […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4842,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[95],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4826","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-grenadines"],"yoast_head":"\nDans la campagne cubaine, aux sources du cigare - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2019\/02\/24\/dans-la-campagne-cubaine-aux-sources-du-cigare\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dans la campagne cubaine, aux sources du cigare - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A Vinales, dans l\u2019ouest de Cuba, la campagne se feuillette comme un livre d\u2019enfants, livre d\u2019images illustrant les cultures \u00e0 l\u2019ancienne, boeufs, chevaux, charrues et charrois, labours et semis, champs de tabac ou de manioc, fiers guajiros, les paysans d\u2019ici, durs au travail de la terre, qui pompent sur leur cigare en toutes circonstances. 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D\u2019Am\u00e9rique du Sud, d\u2019Italie, de Gr\u00e8ce, de France ou d\u2019ailleurs, elles nous parlent. Somptueuses ou rustiques, \u00e9lanc\u00e9es, gracieuse, baroques, gothiques, romanes ou contemporaines, elles marquent leur lieu et son histoire,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Voyage immobile"","block_context":{"text":"Voyage immobile","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/savoir\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/IMG_2183-1-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/IMG_2183-1-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/IMG_2183-1-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/IMG_2183-1-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/IMG_2183-1-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3282,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2018\/01\/27\/a-mongui-sommes-subjugues-paramo-de-oceta\/","url_meta":{"origin":4826,"position":3},"title":"A Mongui nous sommes subjugu\u00e9s par le paramo de Oceta","author":"Philippe","date":"27 janvier 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Au dessus de Mongui, nous atteignons le paramo de Oceta vers 3800 m\u00e8tres. Les 800 m\u00e8tres d'ascension sont relativement faciles malgr\u00e9 l'altitude. Les conditions sont id\u00e9ales avec un fort vent qui a compl\u00e8tement d\u00e9gag\u00e9 le ciel. L'indice UV est \u00e0 son maximum, aussi faut-il non seulement un bonnet, mais le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Colombie"","block_context":{"text":"Colombie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/colombie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/LRG_DSC00938.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/LRG_DSC00938.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/LRG_DSC00938.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/LRG_DSC00938.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/LRG_DSC00938.jpeg?fit=1200%2C675&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":4759,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2019\/02\/15\/a-la-havane-dans-le-dernier-carre-de-la-revolution\/","url_meta":{"origin":4826,"position":4},"title":"A La Havane, dans le dernier carr\u00e9 de la r\u00e9volution","author":"Philippe","date":"15 f\u00e9vrier 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"La Havane, pour qui est lucide, ne peut passer pour une simple destination soleil. 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Un nom qui parle aux voileux. C\u2019est loin, c\u2019est tr\u00e8s beau, exotique, avec une navigation physique dans le souffle et les grains des aliz\u00e9s. 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