{"id":513,"date":"2015-01-02T23:38:47","date_gmt":"2015-01-02T22:38:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=513"},"modified":"2017-03-22T16:11:54","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T15:11:54","slug":"el-fitz-roy-es-una-diva","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/02\/el-fitz-roy-es-una-diva\/","title":{"rendered":"El Fitz Roy es una diva"},"content":{"rendered":"

El Fitz Roy es una diva.<\/p>\n

Il y a une semaine nous avons pos\u00e9 nos roues en Argentine et piqu\u00e9 au 180\u00b0, plein sud vers le Parque National Los Glaciares, par la Ruta 40 . Etrange route que cette route 40. Quand la carte Michelin nous disait asphalte, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 de la mauvaise piste. Quand elle nous disait piste nous avons eu une superbe route asphalt\u00e9e. Partout un d\u00e9sert aride, oppressant. Personne. Pas d\u2019essence. Pas d\u2019eau. Rien.<\/p>\n

\"DSC03184\"<\/a>\u00a0 \"DSC03214\"<\/a> \"DSC03204\"<\/a>\"DSC03201\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03224\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Seule animation, nous croisons de temps en temps quelques guanacos et des port\u00e9es de petites autruches. Comment font-ils\u00a0pour survivre ici\u00a0?<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous faisons les 600 kilom\u00e8tres entre Los Antiguos et El Chalten d\u2019une traite faute de trouver un lieu o\u00f9 faire une \u00e9tape interm\u00e9diaire. Il y a bien le bourg de Gobernator Gregorio, une esp\u00e8ce de milieu de nulle part argentin, mais l\u2019ambiance post-atomique de l\u2019endroit nous fait fuir aussit\u00f4t le plein d\u2019essence effectu\u00e9. Lorsqu\u2019en toute fin de journ\u00e9e nous voyons appara\u00eetre le massif montagneux qui domine El Chalten, nous \u00e9prouvons un soulagement.<\/p>\n

El Chalten, Chamonix en herbe folle, Mecque du backpacker, au pied du Fitz Roy s\u2019il vous plait! Un peu foutraque, avec son urbanisme chaotique, ses constructions disparates, sa centrale \u00e9lectrique en container, mais de nombreux h\u00f4tels, auberges, B&B, alojamentos, camping z\u00e9ro \u00e9toile\u2026 tout le vocabulaire de l\u2019h\u00e9bergement y est d\u00e9clin\u00e9. Nous arrivons sans r\u00e9servation, en pleine p\u00e9riode de f\u00eates, vacances de no\u00ebl et vacances d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 confondues dans ce monde \u00e0 l’envers. Bref tout est plein \u2026 sauf qu\u2019on d\u00e9niche une chambre gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 la d\u00e9brouillardise des h\u00f4tesses des h\u00f4tels. Elles se passent des coups de fil \u00e9nergiques et cela s\u2019arrange. Merci les filles argentines.<\/p>\n

Notre programme est simplissime\u00a0: voir sa majest\u00e9 le Fitz Roy et son concurrent le Cerro Torre. Or ces deux monuments ont la r\u00e9putation m\u00e9rit\u00e9e de se cacher le plus souvent derri\u00e8re ou au-dessus d\u2019un \u00e9pais rideau de nuages. J\u2019entends dans la rue quelqu\u2019un dire \u00ab\u00a0El Fitz Roy es una diva<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb. C\u2019est juste. Une diva r\u00e9serve ses apparitions autant qu\u2019elle les soigne. Elle ne se livre pas \u00e0 n\u2019importe qui, ni \u00e0 n\u2019importe quel prix\u00a0! Elle est surtout capricieuse. Le Fitz Roy a les caprices de la m\u00e9t\u00e9o patagonne, bougonne.<\/p>\n

\"DSC03310\"<\/a>\"DSC03264\"<\/a>\"DSC03256\"<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Il nous faudra attendre cinq jours pour que le Fitz Roy se d\u00e9voile. Quel suspense\u00a0! Et quel spectacle\u00a0! Unique\u00a0! M\u00eame sc\u00e9nario pour le Cerro Torre, fantastique aiguille, inou\u00efe de finesse. Surmont\u00e9e d\u2019un \u00e9norme pochon de glace. C\u2019est lui que nous verrons \u00e9merger en premier des nuages. Bernadette Soubirous en e\u00fbt \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e0 terre.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous avions lu autrefois le r\u00e9cit dramatique de la premi\u00e8re ascension du Torre par l\u2019italien Cesare Maestri. En voyant cette silhouette anormalement effil\u00e9e on se dit ces gars l\u00e0 \u00e9taient vraiment pr\u00eats \u00e0 tout, \u00e0 y mourir aussi. Quant au Fitz Roy, ce sont les fran\u00e7ais Lionel Terray et Guido Magnone qui firent sa premi\u00e8re. Terray, un type extraordinaire, un des grands oubli\u00e9s de l\u2019exp\u00e9dition fran\u00e7aise de l\u2019Anapurna o\u00f9 Maurice Herzog spolia ses compagnons du succ\u00e8s (contest\u00e9).<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Dans ces cinq jours nous verrons de splendides glaciers, le Viedma qui descend du Campo Hielo jusqu\u2019au grand lac Viedma, le glacier du Cerro Torre, tr\u00e8s large qui s\u2019abat aussi dans un lac et enfin le glacier du Fitz Roy, dont les aiguilles de glace forment la Piedra Blanca. Ici les aiguilles de glace s\u2019avancent pour effectuer un saut p\u00e9rilleux vers leur destination finale. Des glaciers vivants qu\u2019on entend craquer continuellement, et dont on voit les d\u00e9bris d\u00e9river dans les lacs jusqu\u2019\u00e0 sculpter des monstres de cristal.<\/p>\n

\"DSC03380\"<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"DSC03326\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Entre le Cerro Torre dans le lointain \u00e0 gauche et le Fitz Roy, une nouvelle aiguille?<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Et maintenant nous reprenons la route vers le sud … mais cela ne s’arr\u00eate jamais ce sud ???<\/p>\n

Hasta luego!<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

El Fitz Roy es una diva. Il y a une semaine nous avons pos\u00e9 nos roues en Argentine et piqu\u00e9 au 180\u00b0, plein sud vers le Parque National Los Glaciares, par la Ruta 40 . Etrange route que cette route 40. Quand la carte Michelin nous disait asphalte, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 de la mauvaise piste. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":497,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[10],"tags":[11],"class_list":["post-513","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-argentine"],"yoast_head":"\nEl Fitz Roy es una diva - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/02\/el-fitz-roy-es-una-diva\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"El Fitz Roy es una diva - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"El Fitz Roy es una diva. Il y a une semaine nous avons pos\u00e9 nos roues en Argentine et piqu\u00e9 au 180\u00b0, plein sud vers le Parque National Los Glaciares, par la Ruta 40 . Etrange route que cette route 40. Quand la carte Michelin nous disait asphalte, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 de la mauvaise piste. 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La voie argentine est le seul moyen de gagner le tr\u00e8s grand Sud par la fameuse Ruta 40, et notamment les parcs Los Glaciares en Argentine et\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00288.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1332,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/03\/06\/comment-voyager-voiture-bus-avion-velo-cheval-pick-up-paquebot-camping-car-ferry\/","url_meta":{"origin":513,"position":1},"title":"Comment voyager? Voiture, bus, avion, v\u00e9lo, cheval, pick-up, paquebot, camping-car, ferry?","author":"Philippe","date":"6 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"En 15000 kilom\u00e8tres parcourus au Chili et en Argentine, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 bien des voyageurs, et bien des styles d'aventure. Petit bilan pour ceux qui pr\u00e9parent le voyage, ou ceux, plus nombreux, qui ne le pr\u00e9parent pas tout en y pensant. Garder \u00e0 l'esprit la loi universelle du voyage, selon\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00109.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":282,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/18\/le-cri-du-lion-dans-la-brume\/","url_meta":{"origin":513,"position":2},"title":"Le cri du lion dans la brume","author":"Philippe","date":"18 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Chilo\u00e9 nous a retenu sur la route du sud. Notre curiosit\u00e9 y trouve son compte. Test du \u00abcuranto al hoyo\u00bb \u00e0 Quetalmahue. Le curanto, si l\u2019on admet les d\u00e9finitions absurdes, c\u2019est un peu comme une choucroute de la mer sans chou, mais avec la mer quand m\u00eame. On garde les\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc01041.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1101,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2014\/12\/21\/carretera-austral\/","url_meta":{"origin":513,"position":3},"title":"Carretera austral","author":"Philippe","date":"21 d\u00e9cembre 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Nous quittons Chilo\u00e9 apr\u00e8s une derni\u00e8re \u00e9glise et une rencontre avec les p\u00e9cheurs huilliches de la c\u00f4te, qui pratiquent une p\u00eache \u00e0 pied pour le moins sportive. A Quellon nous embarquons avec \u00ab\u00a0Naviera Austral\u00a0\u00bb pour Puerto Cisnes o\u00f9 nous aborderons la Patagonie chilienne. Cette partie du Chili, bien que continentale,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/dsc00105.jpg?fit=1200%2C673&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":666,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/24\/la-longue-route\/","url_meta":{"origin":513,"position":4},"title":"La longue route","author":"Philippe","date":"24 janvier 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Depuis le d\u00e9troit de Magellan notre mission est claire: rejoindre le nord du Chili, en passant par l\u2019Argentine. Soit 4000 \u00e0 5000 kilom\u00e8tres de route, pour aller du 53\u00e8me parall\u00e8le au 23\u00e8me parall\u00e8le sud. Carte en main la route part de Punta Arenas au Chili, puis Rio Gallegos en Argentine,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/img_1150.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/img_1150.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/img_1150.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/img_1150.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/img_1150.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1134,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/03\/01\/a-mon-tour-jai-pris-des-cactus\/","url_meta":{"origin":513,"position":5},"title":"A mon tour j’ai pris des cactus …","author":"Philippe","date":"1 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"Pour les amateurs de cactus, nous avons rassembl\u00e9 quelques photos prises \"in situ\". Nous ne sommes pas certains de leurs noms, repris dans les brochures des parcs. Etonnant de voir \u00e0 quel point ces cactus sculptent des volumes diff\u00e9rents, du micro-cactus qui se dissimule au regard, au g\u00e9ant qui se\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Chili & Argentine"","block_context":{"text":"Chili & Argentine","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/chile-y-argentina\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"SONY DSC","src":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.files.wordpress.com\/2015\/02\/dsc04783.jpg?w=350&h=200&crop=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/513","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=513"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/513\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2136,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/513\/revisions\/2136"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/497"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=513"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=513"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=513"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}