{"id":5503,"date":"2020-02-25T11:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-02-25T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/?p=5503"},"modified":"2020-02-25T23:51:47","modified_gmt":"2020-02-25T22:51:47","slug":"trek-en-pays-maya-un-voyage-dans-le-temps","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2020\/02\/25\/trek-en-pays-maya-un-voyage-dans-le-temps\/","title":{"rendered":"Trek en pays Maya, une plong\u00e9e dans le pass\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

La un tixiehx! … en Maya Ixil<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nous voulions voir le Guatemala authentique, voire profond. Nous l’avons touch\u00e9 du doigt dans ce trek de trois jours dans la Sierra de Los Cuchumatanes, du village de Chancol au bourg de Nebaj. R\u00e9gion recul\u00e9e du Guatemala, entre 2000 et 3300 m\u00e8tres d’altitude, c’est un m\u00e9lange de montagne et de vie indig\u00e8ne, o\u00f9 se juxtaposent les ethnies mayas et les modes de vie. La guerre civile y a \u00e9t\u00e9 sanglante et la r\u00e9gion en reste marqu\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Chancol, notre point de d\u00e9part, c’est jour de march\u00e9. Un gros march\u00e9 o\u00f9 convergent les paysans de la r\u00e9gion, venant \u00e9couler leurs produits mais aussi ravitailler. Les liasses de quetzals sont dans toutes les mains. La carte bancaire n’a pas p\u00e9n\u00e9tr\u00e9 ici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Au retour du march\u00e9, il y a du poids dans les 4×4, sur le dos des mules et la t\u00eate des femmes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L’usage est d’ailleurs que tout peut se porter sur la t\u00eate, m\u00eame d’\u00e9normes courges. Essayez Mesdames!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chemin faisant nous croisons des lavandi\u00e8res. Aucune machine \u00e0 laver n’a encore \u00e9t\u00e9 install\u00e9e ici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Cette charmante lavandi\u00e8re descend 500 \u00e0 600 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9e pour rejoindre le rio, avec la lessive d’une semaine, puis remonte linge lav\u00e9 et s\u00e9ch\u00e9 au soleil. Une jolie journ\u00e9e de travail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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M\u00eame programme de lavage<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mais les hommes travaillent aussi! Aux champs. Les seuls instruments sont des outils \u00e0 main. Le pic, le sarcloir et la fourche \u00e0 deux dents sont particuli\u00e8rement pris\u00e9s. Aucun tracteur n’a encore p\u00e9n\u00e9tr\u00e9 ici.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Nous nous hissons \u00e0 3300 m\u00e8tres sur un altiplano karstique, avec des paysages un peu comparables au hauts plateaux du Vercors en \u00e9t\u00e9, mais beaucoup plus haut. La vie paysanne y devient extr\u00eamement rustique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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<<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Heureusement il existe un refuge o\u00f9 apr\u00e8s une nuit glaciale, le soleil nous ram\u00e8ne \u00e0 la vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Quelques enfants vont \u00e0 l’\u00e9cole, o\u00f9 ils ont l’obligation d’amener du bois qui servira \u00e0 la cuisine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Le trek se poursuit dans ce terrain remarquable de blocs karstiques et de pin\u00e8des.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Apr\u00e8s le village de Chancul, nous basculons dans une \u00e9norme descente qui nous ram\u00e8ne vers 2000 m\u00e8tres. Les rencontres se font moins s\u00e9v\u00e8res.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ralliant Nebaj, bourgade aux extr\u00eames de la rusticit\u00e9, nous arrivons juste pour une f\u00eate en hommage aux traditions Ixil, le peuple et la langue maya de cette vall\u00e9e. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nous en profitons pour nous initier \u00e0 l’Ixil . Prononcer Ichil … Apr\u00e8s trois heures de cours nous sommes lessiv\u00e9s, car prononcer avec la glotte, ce n’est pas donn\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La un tixiehx! signifie Bonjour \u00e0 tous!, mais le dire correctement c’est un challenge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quelques signes montrent pourtant que la modernit\u00e9 s’est tout de m\u00eame gliss\u00e9e ici!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La qilqib’! ….. en Ixil, <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hasta luego!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La un tixiehx! … en Maya Ixil Nous voulions voir le Guatemala authentique, voire profond. Nous l’avons touch\u00e9 du doigt dans ce trek de trois jours dans la Sierra de Los Cuchumatanes, du village de Chancol au bourg de Nebaj. R\u00e9gion recul\u00e9e du Guatemala, entre 2000 et 3300 m\u00e8tres d’altitude, c’est un m\u00e9lange de montagne […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":269,"featured_media":5486,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[98],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5503","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-guatemala"],"yoast_head":"\nTrek en pays Maya, une plong\u00e9e dans le pass\u00e9 - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2020\/02\/25\/trek-en-pays-maya-un-voyage-dans-le-temps\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Trek en pays Maya, une plong\u00e9e dans le pass\u00e9 - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"La un tixiehx! … en Maya Ixil Nous voulions voir le Guatemala authentique, voire profond. 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