{"id":565,"date":"2016-11-22T18:22:20","date_gmt":"2016-11-22T17:22:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/imaginepolynesie.wordpress.com\/?p=565"},"modified":"2017-10-29T15:41:57","modified_gmt":"2017-10-29T14:41:57","slug":"aux-marquises-sur-lile-dhiva-oa-jacquesbrel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/11\/22\/aux-marquises-sur-lile-dhiva-oa-jacquesbrel\/","title":{"rendered":"Aux Marquises, sur l’ile d’Hiva Oa, Jacques Brel"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nous avons laiss\u00e9 notre sloop \u00e0 Uturoa, sur l’ile de Raiatea. Pas de regrets car le temps \u00e9tait alors pass\u00e9 au mauvais avec une pluie intense et continue, sous 20 noeuds de vent \u00e9tabli.<\/p>\n

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Nous avons pris un vol vers Papeete, et de l\u00e0 un nouveau vol vers les Marquises, pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment vers l’ile d’Hiva Oa. La distance entre ces iles est \u00e9norme, 2000 kilom\u00e8tres … mais toujours en Polyn\u00e9sie fran\u00e7aise, au coeur du Pacifique Sud.<\/p>\n

L’ile d’Hiva Oa, une lentille de 40 kilom\u00e8tres sur 10, est terriblement montagneuse, volcanique, au relief chanstiqu\u00e9, des cotes abruptes battues par la houle, sans abri, except\u00e9 l’anse d’Atuona, o\u00f9 niche un petit port.<\/p>\n

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Les voileux harass\u00e9s par 2000 milles nautiques viennent y respirer le parfum de la terre retrouv\u00e9e et se faire balloter dans un clapot incessant. Ici il n’y a pas de lagon, le corail n’a pas eu le temps d’en former. 9 degr\u00e9s sud, l’ile est bien arros\u00e9e et couverte d’une v\u00e9g\u00e9tation tropicale luxuriante.<\/p>\n

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Bref une belle Marquise, comme on l’imagine.<\/p>\n

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2000 habitants aujourd’hui, quand plusieurs dizaines de milliers d’habitants vivaient ici avant les europ\u00e9ens, une civilisation animiste aujourd’hui disparue, sans \u00e9criture autre que les tatouages, mais dont les rites et les modes de vie sont assez bien connus grace aux importants vestiges arch\u00e9ologiques.<\/p>\n

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Nous plongeons ici dans une ambiance paisible, paisible, entre \u00e9quateur et tropique, le rythme para\u00eet comme ralenti. M\u00eame si les banals Toyota Hilux ont regrettablement remplac\u00e9 les chevaux, tout le monde prend la peine de se dire bonjour en marquisien, rien \u00e0 voir avec le tahitien, et kao’ha<\/em> adress\u00e9 avec un sourire devient vite notre meilleur passeport.<\/p>\n

Hiva Oa a \u00e9t\u00e9 popularis\u00e9e par deux hommes de l\u00e9gende, aujourd’hui voisins de palier dans le cimeti\u00e8re d’Atuona, parmi les marquisiens.<\/p>\n

Paul Gauguin, de son vivant ici une \u00e9pave, alcoolique, p\u00e9dophile syphilitique, gangr\u00e9n\u00e9, repli\u00e9 dans sa \u00ab\u00a0maison du jouir<\/i>\u00ab\u00a0, compl\u00e8tement cuit. L’artiste maudit, non reconnu, mais inspir\u00e9, venu sur le tard s’\u00e9chouer sur ce rivage, pour y ex\u00e9cuter ses derni\u00e8res toiles magistrales, y crever plut\u00f4t qu’y mourir. Une enseignante d’Atuona nous explique qu’elle a fait la classe \u00e0 de nombreux descendants de Gauguin… Quant aux ados assis sur les marches du cimeti\u00e8re aucun ne sait dire trois mots sur Gauguin. Incroyablement nous n’avons pas eu le temps de visiter le mus\u00e9e local Gauguin, tant ses horaires d’ouverture sont sur un rythme marquisien. Mais au cimeti\u00e8re, Gauguin ne nous a pas \u00e9chapp\u00e9. Une tombe \u00e9paisse de pierre marquisienne, aussi sombre que son client.<\/p>\n

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Jacques Brel, au contraire, est consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme un bienfaiteur par les marquisiens. Apr\u00e8s ses adieux \u00e0 la sc\u00e8ne, Brel se consacra \u00e0 deux grandes passions, le pilotage et la voile. Il poss\u00e9dait d\u00e9j\u00e0 un excellent niveau de pilote, avec une qualification IFR de vol aux instruments. Novice en voile, il d\u00e9cida pourtant d’entreprendre le tour du monde, avec sa compagne Maddly. Ce qu’il fit! Travers\u00e9e de l’Atlantique, canal de Panama, travers\u00e9e du Pacifique, mais atteint d’un cancer de la gauloise au bec, un poumon retir\u00e9 entre-temps, il arriva avec Maddly compl\u00e8tement \u00e9puis\u00e9 sur l’ile d’Hiva Oa. Ec\u0153ur\u00e9s du bateau et emball\u00e9s par le lieu, ils d\u00e9cid\u00e8rent de s’installer durablement, dans une modeste maison d’Atuona. Jacques Brel \u00e9tait compl\u00e8tement inconnu \u00e0 Hiva Oa, pour un marquisien le plat pays ou les flamandes, c’est pas du grec, mais au-del\u00e0 du sanscrit. Brel acquit un avion sur Tahiti, le fameux \u00ab\u00a0Jojo<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0. Avec celui-ci il rendit beaucoup de services aux marquisiens, assurant le transport du courrier entre les iles, transportant les malades… Il suscita la modernisation de l’a\u00e9roport, fit aussi am\u00e9nager un cin\u00e9ma de plein air, etc.<\/p>\n

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Jacques Brel devint ainsi Saint Jacques d’Hiva Oa, dont la s\u00e9pulture dans le cimeti\u00e8re d’Atuona constitue pour les marins un but de p\u00e8lerinage.<\/p>\n

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Sa tombe, sur une hauteur, face au Pacifique, sans croix ni artifice, est un monument de s\u00e9r\u00e9nit\u00e9. Une st\u00e8le joliment grav\u00e9e, une adresse po\u00e9tique aux voyageurs de passage, quelques fleurs comme tomb\u00e9es des hibiscus environnants, et beaucoup de galets portant les hommages de tous ceux qui venus de tr\u00e8s loin ont voulu laisser quelque chose… Nous y joignons pieusement notre caillou, ramass\u00e9 sur une gr\u00e8ve de l’ile.<\/p>\n

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Une v\u00e9ritable \u00e9motion nous saisit, quand on a que l’amour, les vieux, la Fanette, les bourgeois, Jef, Mathilde, .. putain c’\u00e9tait des textes, et on \u00e9tait trop jeune pour l’Olympia. On ne t’aura jamais approch\u00e9 aussi pr\u00e9s qu’ici, si loin, au fin fond du Pacifique. Quarante neuf ans, grand Jacques, t’es mort trop t\u00f4t.<\/p>\n

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Nous avons laiss\u00e9 notre sloop \u00e0 Uturoa, sur l’ile de Raiatea. Pas de regrets car le temps \u00e9tait alors pass\u00e9 au mauvais avec une pluie intense et continue, sous 20 noeuds de vent \u00e9tabli. Nous avons pris un vol vers Papeete, et de l\u00e0 un nouveau vol vers les Marquises, pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment vers l’ile d’Hiva Oa. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":551,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[47,28],"tags":[16],"class_list":["post-565","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-marquises-hiva-oa","category-polynesie","tag-polynesie"],"yoast_head":"\nAux Marquises, sur l'ile d'Hiva Oa, Jacques Brel - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/11\/22\/aux-marquises-sur-lile-dhiva-oa-jacquesbrel\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Aux Marquises, sur l'ile d'Hiva Oa, Jacques Brel - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nous avons laiss\u00e9 notre sloop \u00e0 Uturoa, sur l’ile de Raiatea. 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Pas de regrets car le temps \u00e9tait alors pass\u00e9 au mauvais avec une pluie intense et continue, sous 20 noeuds de vent \u00e9tabli. Nous avons pris un vol vers Papeete, et de l\u00e0 un nouveau vol vers les Marquises, pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment vers l’ile d’Hiva Oa. 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L'ile de Nuku Hiva en est la plus \u00e9tendue et la plus peupl\u00e9e: un peu plus de trois mille habitants. Nous y posons notre voyage pour quelques jours, accueillis par une famille polyn\u00e9sienne. Beaucoup de sang marquisien, un peu\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Marquises, Nuku Hiva"","block_context":{"text":"Marquises, Nuku Hiva","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/polynesie\/marquises-nuku-hiva\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image242.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image242.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image242.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image242.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image242.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":192,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/11\/03\/deux-jours-sur-lile-de-maupiti\/","url_meta":{"origin":565,"position":1},"title":"Deux jours sur l’\u00eele de Maupiti","author":"Philippe","date":"3 novembre 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"L'ile de Maupiti est situ\u00e9e \u00e0 180 milles dans l'ouest de Tahiti. 1500 habitants y pr\u00e9servent un art de vivre bien polyn\u00e9sien, ayant vot\u00e9 contre la construction de grands h\u00f4tels. Les seuls visiteurs de passage r\u00e9sident dans des petites pensions \u00e0 l'ancienne, o\u00f9 l'on soup\u00e7onne l'usage d\u00e9suet du rond de\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Maupiti"","block_context":{"text":"Maupiti","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/polynesie\/maupiti\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image12.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image12.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image12.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image12.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image12.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1951,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/10\/17\/ici-aujourdhui-cest-encore-hier\/","url_meta":{"origin":565,"position":2},"title":"Ici, aujourd’hui c’est encore hier","author":"Philippe","date":"17 octobre 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Hier, dimanche 16 octobre, nous avons fait un joli demi-tour de notre globe. Un peu apr\u00e9s 10 heures du matin nous quittions Charles de Gaulle. Direction l'Ecosse, puis l'Islande, puis le Groenland \u00e0 70\u00b0 de latitude nord. De l\u00e0 nous avons travers\u00e9 la baie de Baffin pour rejoindre le Canada\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Polyn\u00e9sie"","block_context":{"text":"Polyn\u00e9sie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/polynesie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image1.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image1.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image1.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image1.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image1.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1954,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/11\/10\/ile-de-bora-bora-air-a-28-eau-a-28-tu-aimeras-ou-pas\/","url_meta":{"origin":565,"position":3},"title":"Ile de Bora Bora, air \u00e0 28\u00b0, eau \u00e0 28\u00b0, tu aimeras, ou pas,","author":"Philippe","date":"10 novembre 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Bora Bora, un nom qui r\u00e9sonne myst\u00e9rieusement, et, seulement pour les initi\u00e9s, l'arch\u00e9type de l'ile paradisiaque. Confetti bien fran\u00e7ais pourtant, gendarmerie et poste incluses, \u00e0 130 milles dans le nord-ouest de Papeete. Nous y sommes all\u00e9s sur notre bel esquif muni de voiles, et nous l'avons beaucoup aim\u00e9e. Nous avons\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Bora Bora"","block_context":{"text":"Bora Bora","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/polynesie\/bora-bora\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image54.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image54.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image54.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image54.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/image54.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1952,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/10\/25\/tahiti-cest-pas-le-paradis-ici\/","url_meta":{"origin":565,"position":4},"title":"Tahiti, \u00ab\u00a0c’est pas le paradis ici?\u00a0\u00bb","author":"Philippe","date":"25 octobre 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"\"C'est pas le paradis ici?\". C'est ainsi que nous apostrophent tous les tahitiens que nous croisons, trop heureux de nous vanter les qualit\u00e9s de leur ile. Jusqu'\u00e0 ce jeune tahitien de Tautira, qui, nous montrant le lagon devant sa maison, nous dit \"ici il y a le garde-manger\", et, se\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Polyn\u00e9sie"","block_context":{"text":"Polyn\u00e9sie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/polynesie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image4.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image4.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image4.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image4.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/image4.jpeg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1985,"url":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2016\/12\/02\/aux-tuamotu-sur-latoll-de-tikehau-sternes-et-fous\/","url_meta":{"origin":565,"position":5},"title":"Aux Tuamotu, sur l’atoll de Tikehau, sternes et fous","author":"Philippe","date":"2 d\u00e9cembre 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape de notre voyage en Polyn\u00e9sie, nous rejoignons l'ile de Tikehau l'un des soixante-dix atolls de l'archipel des Tuamotu. Vus d'avion ces atolls montrent leur \u00e9trange g\u00e9om\u00e9trie, des anneaux de large diam\u00e8tre, quoique \u00e9troits et irr\u00e9guliers, formant digue entre oc\u00e9an et lagon. De plus pr\u00e8s on voit qu'ils sont\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Polyn\u00e9sie"","block_context":{"text":"Polyn\u00e9sie","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/category\/polynesie\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/image20.jpeg?fit=1200%2C571&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/image20.jpeg?fit=1200%2C571&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/image20.jpeg?fit=1200%2C571&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/image20.jpeg?fit=1200%2C571&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/imaginedemain.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/image20.jpeg?fit=1200%2C571&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/565","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=565"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/565\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2006,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/565\/revisions\/2006"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/551"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=565"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=565"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=565"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}