{"id":5757,"date":"2020-03-21T10:29:53","date_gmt":"2020-03-21T09:29:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/?p=5757"},"modified":"2020-03-21T10:30:41","modified_gmt":"2020-03-21T09:30:41","slug":"et-pour-finir-sur-la-mer-caraibe-nous-avons-trouve-livingston","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2020\/03\/21\/et-pour-finir-sur-la-mer-caraibe-nous-avons-trouve-livingston\/","title":{"rendered":"Et, pour finir, sur la mer Caraibe, nous avons trouv\u00e9 Livingston"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Il faut savoir conclure un grand voyage, m\u00eame \u00e0 regret. Pour nous ce sera ici, sur la mer des Caraibes, o\u00f9, comme Stanley, nous trouvons Livingston. C’est un bout du bout, une extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 du monde … Faute de route, on ne rejoint cette modeste bourgade qu’en bateau, \u00e0 l’embouchure du Rio Dulce. L’endroit a le charme improbable des iles Caraibes, o\u00f9 apr\u00e8s les pirates, les colonisateurs d\u00e9pos\u00e8rent esclaves africains et blancs pauvres. La soci\u00e9t\u00e9 s’y perp\u00e9tue depuis entre torpeur tropicale, pax americana, corruption et convulsions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ces quelques dizaines de kilom\u00e8tres d’acc\u00e8s \u00e0 la mer Caraibe du Guatemala ne semblent pas \u00e9chapper \u00e0 cette g\u00e9n\u00e9tique si particuli\u00e8re. Nous y ferons ce que le Lonely Planet d\u00e9conseille, longer le bord de mer, suppos\u00e9 livr\u00e9 aux trafiquants et aux gangs. Tant mieux car par ici le touriste s’\u00e9clipse et le charme op\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Au bout de la rue, une mer de l\u00e9gende: la Caraibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Les garifunas, cette population noire guatemalt\u00e8que se concentre en bord de mer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Nous sommes au Guatemala, mais nous pourrions aussi bien \u00eatre quelque part aux Petites Antilles<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Une \u00e9puisante corv\u00e9e de bois, deux heures de marche … on leur donne quelques quetzals pour prendre un tuk-tuk, mais la maman les gardera pour un autre usage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Il faut une tr\u00e8s grande heure de navigation \u00e0 moteur pour rejoindre Livingston depuis Rio Dulce, avec en final le franchissement d’un d\u00e9fil\u00e9 spectaculaire, aux faux airs de Dordogne<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sur les rives de cette vaste \u00e9tendue d’eau se trouvent mangroves et maisons de p\u00eacheurs b\u00e2ties sur pilotis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

C\u00f4t\u00e9 mer les p\u00eacheurs ont de tous petits moyens, mais peuvent compter sur l’appui des p\u00e9licans pour nettoyer leurs filets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Difficile de faire plus kitsch que cette esp\u00e8ce de statue de la libert\u00e9, \u00e9trangement h\u00e9raldique, sur cet ilot minablement tropical, coiff\u00e9e d’un p\u00e9lican m\u00e9ditatif.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ces tr\u00e8s beaux oiseaux, \u00e9lanc\u00e9s, enrob\u00e9s d’un plumage blanc immacul\u00e9, sont des aigrettes. Elles sont partout, perch\u00e9es dans les arbres ou alors post\u00e9es sur le rivage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div>
\"\"<\/figure><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Ici les cormorans se perchent aussi dans les arbres, ce qu’un cormoran breton ne fait jamais!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Si les p\u00e9licans font le m\u00e9nage sur l’eau, ce sont des vautours qui font le m\u00e9nage \u00e0 terre. Il y en bien besoin dans ces parages peu regardants sur les ordures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Strange !!!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Et pour conclure cette fleur tropicale saisie dans le clair obscur de la for\u00eat qui borde la Caraibe, avant de revenir en Europe … et de tomber dans cette bulle de n\u00e9ant qu’engendre le confinement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Gracias a todos, Lucia y su mama, Paulino, Oliviero, Sa\u00fbl, Miguel, etc. ! Fue un bel viaje. Volveremos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hasta luego!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Philippe & Catherine<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    <\/ul><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Il faut savoir conclure un grand voyage, m\u00eame \u00e0 regret. Pour nous ce sera ici, sur la mer des Caraibes, o\u00f9, comme Stanley, nous trouvons Livingston. C’est un bout du bout, une extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 du monde … Faute de route, on ne rejoint cette modeste bourgade qu’en bateau, \u00e0 l’embouchure du Rio Dulce. L’endroit a le […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":269,"featured_media":5592,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[98],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5757","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-guatemala"],"yoast_head":"\nEt, pour finir, sur la mer Caraibe, nous avons trouv\u00e9 Livingston - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2020\/03\/21\/et-pour-finir-sur-la-mer-caraibe-nous-avons-trouve-livingston\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Et, pour finir, sur la mer Caraibe, nous avons trouv\u00e9 Livingston - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Il faut savoir conclure un grand voyage, m\u00eame \u00e0 regret. 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Notre curiosit\u00e9 y trouve son compte. Test du \u00abcuranto al hoyo\u00bb \u00e0 Quetalmahue. Le curanto, si l\u2019on admet les d\u00e9finitions absurdes, c\u2019est un peu comme une choucroute de la mer sans chou, mais avec la mer quand m\u00eame. 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