{"id":666,"date":"2015-01-24T00:28:12","date_gmt":"2015-01-23T23:28:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=666"},"modified":"2017-03-22T16:02:38","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T15:02:38","slug":"la-longue-route","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/24\/la-longue-route\/","title":{"rendered":"La longue route"},"content":{"rendered":"

Depuis le d\u00e9troit de Magellan notre mission est claire: rejoindre le nord du Chili, en passant par l\u2019Argentine. Soit 4000 \u00e0 5000 kilom\u00e8tres de route, pour aller du 53\u00e8me<\/sup> parall\u00e8le au 23\u00e8me<\/sup> parall\u00e8le sud.<\/p>\n

Carte en main la route part de Punta Arenas au Chili, puis Rio Gallegos en Argentine, sur l\u2019Atlantique, pour rejoindre successivement Puerto San Julian, Comodoro Rivadavia, toujours sur l\u2019Atlantique, ensuite travers\u00e9e au nord-est vers les Andes par Sarmiento, Bariloche, quitter la Patagonie et remonter plein nord par la route 40 vers Mendoza, Villa Union, Cayafate, Salta, avant d\u2019obliquer enfin vers le Chili et San Pedro de Atacama par le col de Jama \u00e0 4200 m\u00e8tres. Vous suivez?<\/p>\n

Et au passage visiter parcs et curiosit\u00e9s \u2026 quand il y en a.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1137\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La route est longue, avec des portions interminables de d\u00e9sert balay\u00e9es par un vent violent, des lignes droites riches de dizaines de kilom\u00e8tres, pas un arbre ni arbuste ni touffe ni rien en vue. Il faut tenir fermement le volant \u00e0 deux mains. Attention aux petites tornades qui soul\u00e8vent des colonnes de poussi\u00e8re. Deux nous ont crois\u00e9 sur la route et nous ont violemment secou\u00e9s. Le vent est d\u2019abord tr\u00e8s froid dans le sud jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Esquel, puis devient caniculaire au nord de Mendoza.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_1150\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Les stations service sont distantes de 200 kilom\u00e8tres, ou plus en Patagonie, autant dire qu\u2019il ne faut pas attendre d\u2019avoir le r\u00e9servoir vide pour faire le plein. Beaucoup de chauss\u00e9es ont \u00e9t\u00e9 refaites, mais les tron\u00e7ons de travaux en cours, surtout sur la route 40 nous jettent sur de mauvaises pistes, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 100 km \u00e0 manger des cailloux et de la poussi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03615\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous traversons toutes sortes de zones \u00e9tranges, parfois constell\u00e9es de crat\u00e8res, parfois couvertes de laves, parfois sem\u00e9es de puits de p\u00e9trole, parfois inondables, parfois dans des sierras furieusement dess\u00e9ch\u00e9es\u2026mais aussi r\u00e9gions bois\u00e9es autour de Bariloche et r\u00e9gions fertiles autour de Mendoza.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \"DSC03620\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Tr\u00e8s difficile de trouver la route car il n\u2019y a pas de signalisation r\u00e9guli\u00e8re, sinon fantaisiste \u2026 Bonne occasion de travailler notre espagnol de survie car les gens d\u2019ici savent o\u00f9 est la route, il suffit de demander, ils comprennent la pregunta, le probl\u00e8me est de comprendre la repuesta. Les argentins ne disent pas \u00ab\u00a0ruta\u00a0<\/em>\u00bb avec le rrrrr<\/em>\u2026 impos\u00e9 en cours d\u2019espagnol, mais carr\u00e9ment \u00ab\u00a0chuta<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb, car l\u2019argentin chuinte, chuinte. De m\u00eame la priorit\u00e9 \u00e0 droite est un concept absolument inconnu ici, il faut juste deviner la route prioritaire, pas facile pour nous les estranjeros. On pourra se vanter de l\u2019avoir faite la choute 40, de chout en chout. On ach\u00e8tera le tee-shirt souvenir avant de partir, avec un \u00e9norme \u00ab\u00a0Chuta 40<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb imprim\u00e9 dessus en gras! Plus fort, on croise quelques rares v\u00e9los charg\u00e9s comme des mules, des dingues \u00e0 notre avis, pr\u00eats \u00e0 des souffrances in\u00e9dites, \u00e0 terminer p\u00e9trifi\u00e9s sur leur b\u00e9cane, avec un chuta 40 tatou\u00e9 dans le creux de l\u2019estomac.<\/p>\n

Nous rejoignons la belle r\u00e9gion des lacs cette fois-ci c\u00f4t\u00e9 argentin \u00e0 Esquel. Nous enchainons alors les parcs nationaux. L\u2019occasion de faire de belles ballades, vers le Cerro Dedal dans le Parque Los Alerces.<\/p>\n

\"DSC03550\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"DSC03522\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03529\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"DSC03538\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03544\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"DSC03542\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Dans la zone du Cerro Catedral, station de ski de Bariloche dans le Parque Nahuel Huapi. C’est un belv\u00e9d\u00e8re d’o\u00f9 nous voyons\u00a0 le Cerro Tronador vers le Chili, et la ville de Bariloche au bord du tr\u00e8s grand lac Nahuel Huapi,<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Randonn\u00e9e aussi sur le volcan Lanin dans le Parque Lanin. Au point haut de cette ballade, vers 2500 m\u00e8tres, nous d\u00e9jeunons \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur du refuge militaire argentin pour nous mettre \u00e0 l\u2019abri d\u2019un soleil absolu en discutant avec les deux appel\u00e9s argentins qui crament leur \u00e9t\u00e9\u00a0 ici. Ils occupent le terrain et contr\u00f4lent que les chiliens d\u2019en face ne d\u00e9bordent pas du strict quart de volcan qui leur appartient. Nous terminons cette rando surchauff\u00e9e par une baignade dans le lac que nous voyions depuis le refuge.<\/p>\n

\"DSC03594\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"DSC03601\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03566\"<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"DSC03584\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03587\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03575\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"DSC03606\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Les ballades sont tr\u00e8s belles, mais l\u2019h\u00e9bergement est devenu beaucoup plus difficile car les argentins sont maintenant en pleines vacances d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, il y a beaucoup de monde. Notre nomadisme ne permet pas de r\u00e9server en avance, et c\u2019est quelquefois tendu pour trouver quelque chose de libre et pas trop nul. Bariloche et sa r\u00e9gion sont particuli\u00e8rement bond\u00e9s, en proportion de l\u2019attrait des lacs et des for\u00eats qui s\u2019y trouvent. Sans compter la vie tr\u00e9pidante de cette station qui attire tous les jeunes argentins! D\u2019h\u00f4tel en apart-h\u00f4tel, puis de camping organis\u00e9 en camping agreste, nous devons tester tous les niveaux de confort. On se refuse encore \u00e0 l\u2019\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0hostal compartimendo\u00a0\u00bb, minuscules dortoirs semi cloaqueux qu\u2019on nous a quelquefois propos\u00e9s. On se souvient de la jeune fran\u00e7aise qui y avait contract\u00e9 la gale \u2026<\/p>\n

Post\u00e9 de Villa Union, Hasta luego<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Depuis le d\u00e9troit de Magellan notre mission est claire: rejoindre le nord du Chili, en passant par l\u2019Argentine. Soit 4000 \u00e0 5000 kilom\u00e8tres de route, pour aller du 53\u00e8me parall\u00e8le au 23\u00e8me parall\u00e8le sud. Carte en main la route part de Punta Arenas au Chili, puis Rio Gallegos en Argentine, sur l\u2019Atlantique, pour rejoindre successivement […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":707,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[10],"tags":[11],"class_list":["post-666","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-argentine"],"yoast_head":"\nLa longue route - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/01\/24\/la-longue-route\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La longue route - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Depuis le d\u00e9troit de Magellan notre mission est claire: rejoindre le nord du Chili, en passant par l\u2019Argentine. 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Voiture, bus, avion, v\u00e9lo, cheval, pick-up, paquebot, camping-car, ferry?","author":"Philippe","date":"6 mars 2015","format":false,"excerpt":"En 15000 kilom\u00e8tres parcourus au Chili et en Argentine, nous avons rencontr\u00e9 bien des voyageurs, et bien des styles d'aventure. Petit bilan pour ceux qui pr\u00e9parent le voyage, ou ceux, plus nombreux, qui ne le pr\u00e9parent pas tout en y pensant. 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