{"id":859,"date":"2015-02-12T20:09:21","date_gmt":"2015-02-12T19:09:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/phicatgarnier.wordpress.com\/?p=859"},"modified":"2017-03-22T15:50:09","modified_gmt":"2017-03-22T14:50:09","slug":"dernieres-nouvelles-datacama","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/02\/12\/dernieres-nouvelles-datacama\/","title":{"rendered":"Derni\u00e8res nouvelles d’Atacama"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nos aventures argentines termin\u00e9es, nous voici de retour au Chili par la route qui relie Pumarmarca au nord de l\u2019Argentine \u00e0 San Pedro de Atacama au Chili. Cinq cents kilom\u00e8tres de route en tr\u00e8s haute altitude, franchissant la fronti\u00e8re au Paso de Jama \u00e0 4300 m\u00e8tres. Sept guichets de contr\u00f4le et fouille de la voiture. Un douanier chilien nous r\u00e9clame un papier que vient de nous confisquer le douanier argentin qui est assis \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de lui, mais il ne veut pas parler au douanier argentin, qui, lui, ne veut pas rendre le papier. Bref on s\u2019amuse.Ni l’altitude, ni le manque d\u2019oxyg\u00e8ne n\u2019entravent la bureaucratie. Deux bonnes heures c\u2019est un minimum ici.<\/p>\n

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Le point le plus haut de la route avant San Pedro est juste \u00e0 l\u2019altitude du Mont Blanc, un peu plus de 4800 m\u00e8tres. Nous y voyons une rare voiture arr\u00eat\u00e9e avec une passag\u00e8re en train de vomir, victime du mal des montagnes.<\/p>\n

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Route hors du commun qui se faufile entre salars et sommets arrondis tirant sur l\u2019orange. Nous passons \u00e0 quelques encablures de la fronti\u00e8re bolivienne, tout pr\u00e8s de la Laguna Verde o\u00f9 nous \u00e9tions venus autrefois par la Bolivie.<\/p>\n

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Le temps est un peu nuageux en raison de \u00ab\u00a0l\u2019hiver altiplanique\u00a0\u00bb, ici il pleut et neige en \u00e9t\u00e9. Mais en redescendant vers San Pedro, comme en avion, de 4800 m\u00e8tres \u00e0 2500 m\u00e8tres, le ciel se d\u00e9gage compl\u00e8tement, la temp\u00e9rature gagne plus de 20\u00b0C, on \u00e9touffe.<\/p>\n

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Le village de San Pedro de Atacama, oasis d’une verdure ch\u00e9tive, pos\u00e9 entre hauts plateaux et volcans \u00e0 plus de 6000 m\u00e8tres, constitue un spot touristique international, bien diff\u00e9rent de tout ce que nous avons travers\u00e9 jusqu\u2019ici. De nombreux h\u00f4tels et agences de voyage locales proposent leurs services pour visiter les hauts lieux des environs, qui ne manquent pas. La plupart des gens viennent ici en avion directement.<\/p>\n

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Nous utilisons nos propres moyens, v\u00e9lo et voiture, pour nous rendre sur les gros spots avant ou apr\u00e8s les fourgons de touristes.<\/p>\n

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Belles ballades v\u00e9lo dans les paysages fantastiques de la Valle de la Luna et de la Valle de l’arc-en-ciel \u00ab\u00a0Yerbas Buenas\u00a0\u00bb. Nous les faisons temprano le matin, avant d\u2019\u00eatre assomm\u00e9s par le soleil, proche de la verticale au z\u00e9nith.<\/p>\n

\"DSC04030\"<\/a>\"DSC04015\"<\/a>\"DSC04012\"<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a>\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

Nous sommes impressionn\u00e9s par le Salar d\u2019Atacama, extraordinairement inhospitalier. Le sel y est m\u00e9lang\u00e9 en surface \u00e0 de la terre, formant une croute \u00e9paisse et d\u00e9sordonn\u00e9e, d\u00e9courageant toute vell\u00e9it\u00e9 d\u2019y marcher. Si on ajoute un air totalement sec, entre 35\u00b0 et 40\u00b0C, avec un vent fort, vous voyez l\u2019ambiance.<\/p>\n

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Pourtant sur le peu d\u2019eau libre du Salar, les oiseaux paraissent tr\u00e8s \u00e0 l\u2019aise\u00a0: flamants andins filtrant les crevettes de leur bec ultra puissant, ou planant sur le fond du volcan Licancabur, avocettes andines au bec effil\u00e9, chorlo de la puna \u2026 avis aux ornithologues! Plus haut en montagne, des p\u00e9troglyphes de flamants, trac\u00e9s par quelques indiens il y a des milliers d’ann\u00e9es.<\/p>\n

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Moment magique aux geysers du Tatio, o\u00f9 nous parvenons \u00e0 \u00e9viter presque compl\u00e8tement la foule, et d\u00e9couvrir ce champ de geysers au lever du soleil. Le plus grand champ de geysers au monde!<\/p>\n

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Quelques vigognes nous y ont donn\u00e9 rendez-vous, et l\u2019une d\u2019elles ex\u00e9cute un superbe entrechat \u00e0 quatre pattes.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

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\u00c7a gargouille, \u00e7a glougloute, \u00e7a \u00e9ructe, \u00e7a brumise, \u00e7a gicle, \u00e7a fumerolle \u2026 c\u2019est vraiment \u00e9trange ces geysers, toute cette eau gazeuse et bouillonnante qui choisit d\u2019\u00e9merger \u00e0 plus de 4000 m\u00e8tres d\u2018altitude. Comme si la Terre avait aussi ses probl\u00e8mes intestinaux.<\/p>\n

\"SONY<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \"SONY<\/a><\/p>\n

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Nous terminons notre s\u00e9jour \u00e0 San Pedro, sous le regard attentif de quelques lamas \u00e0 jolis rubans, comme les \u00e9leveurs d’ici les parent, mais aussi une sorte de canard qui mange l’herbe d’une lagune.<\/p>\n

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Hasta luego<\/p>\n

\"DSC04104-001\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Nos aventures argentines termin\u00e9es, nous voici de retour au Chili par la route qui relie Pumarmarca au nord de l\u2019Argentine \u00e0 San Pedro de Atacama au Chili. Cinq cents kilom\u00e8tres de route en tr\u00e8s haute altitude, franchissant la fronti\u00e8re au Paso de Jama \u00e0 4300 m\u00e8tres. Sept guichets de contr\u00f4le et fouille de la voiture. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":866,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[10],"tags":[14],"class_list":["post-859","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile-y-argentina","tag-chili"],"yoast_head":"\nDerni\u00e8res nouvelles d'Atacama - Imagine demain<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/imaginedemain.fr\/index.php\/2015\/02\/12\/dernieres-nouvelles-datacama\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Derni\u00e8res nouvelles d'Atacama - Imagine demain\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nos aventures argentines termin\u00e9es, nous voici de retour au Chili par la route qui relie Pumarmarca au nord de l\u2019Argentine \u00e0 San Pedro de Atacama au Chili. 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Soit 4000 \u00e0 5000 kilom\u00e8tres de route, pour aller du 53\u00e8me parall\u00e8le au 23\u00e8me parall\u00e8le sud. 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